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swivel table sketch

larry merlau

larry merlau

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Delton, Michigan
ok i havnt played with sketchup in years,,, but i got to fit a table into a small space.. its replacing a ikea swivel table that was made out of mdf with vinyl laminate around it,, contact paper stuff.. anyway it didnt hold up so i am making this out of real wood but the customer thinks that 12" of over hang wont hold up the food and people using it.. the hinged top will be hinged with sosa type hinges rather than the butler type used on the mdf version. i could lay up the top so the boards ran the long ways on the opened top so wouldnt have the splitting option from weight on one side.. so any help or ideas are welcome. i can email the skb file if someone wants play with my lego project:)

shelly table.jpg
 
Send me a copy of your file, if you like. You have my email addy. I'll see how bad I can mess it up! ;)

I agree with running the boards the long way. Why is the top hinged? Does it fold, then slide to the center?
 
yes bill. the top is folded for most of the time, space restriction.. it has a swivel setup under it i didnt draw it but it will be there.. then unfolds to make the larger table space,, and when that is done i have 12" overhang on the long direction and a 10" over hang on the short dimension.
 
I assume the base is oblong to allow support of the unfolded table top parts when swiveled to the long side? If that is the case, I'd go with long grain also.
 
yes darren the base is 40" wide and 30" deep. i just am not sure i shouldnt put a support under them on the long dimension when fully open.. think a double apron on the 30 " sides would work, some kind of a slide out support. like a hidden leaf table does.
 
larry merlau said:
yes darren the base is 40" wide and 30" deep. i just am not sure i shouldnt put a support under them on the long dimension when fully open.. think a double apron on the 30 " sides would work, some kind of a slide out support. like a hidden leaf table does.
Click to expand...

That is an option, but you should have several inches of support from the base itself. I think it will depend on the hinges used and if they have any flex past the 180* (fully opened) position or not, if there is flex, then it could have a fulcrum effect, lifting up the lazy susan (if there is any play in that).

One thing I'm not clear on is if the leafs lay over on top or lay down when on the folded side?
 
the top is 32x40 folded up and the bottom half is swiveled from under neath, swivels 90 degrees and opens up to the full width.. the hinges would be 4 sosa hinges in the edge rathr than on the face like ikea did it.
 
Larry,

I use to have a vintage draw leaf table. The design allows for more support when you extend it. See the following blog that I found that covers this particular type of table.
 
still needs the cross brace under the one side of the top for the pivot point. also, as the top is only fixed to the base at the pivot point, if someone leaned on the overhang, supports or not, it will lift at the center. learned that lesson accidentally on the sis in law's antique table....
 

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  • base set up.jpg
    base set up.jpg
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I looked at the lift problem and came up with the solution shown below:

Larry_TableSwivel_1.jpgLarry_TableSwivel_2.jpg

This assumes a circular "lazy susan" type assembly on the front-to-back bracket. The wedge is mounted in the center of the table top just inside the rear apron. A mating wedge piece is mounted on the bracket. As the top is rotated to the user position, the wedges come together.

On the overall design, I'd angle the inside faces of the legs and add some type of engraved pattern to the aprons.
 
i like that one bill, but you would have to put the wedge on the side opposite of the pivot point, or the part under the top will run into the apron when it is put back into the folded up position. if this is anything like the one the sis in law has, it takes an odd swing when turned from one way to the other.
 
Read my post again. The wedge on the underside of the top is mounted inside the rear apron. There's nothing in the way of it as the top rotates.
 
Here's a graphic of the top turned halfway.

Larry_TableSwivel_3.jpg

I suppose one could place a couple of wedges for a little insurance - add another a few inches inside the front apron.
 
Dan Noren said:
i stand corrected, different perspective shows it better.
Click to expand...

My bet is that you were really sitting! :D

I'm also looking at another approach with a pullout in the center of the front apron. One would pull it out, rotate the top, then push it back in to lock the top down. I think the passive approach in my first drawing is better because it doesn't require any action other than rotating the top. Either method eliminates the need for pullouts to support the overhangs on each end of the table.
 
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funny thing bill, the sis in law's table is 60-80 years old, and seems to do quite well in spite of no supports for the outer ends. it would seem that a lack of hold downs for the top is the nature of the beast, and as long as you don't pick the table up by the top, in either open or closed, you're ok. they also have another table that was interesting, when you pull the two halves of the top apart, a center section rises up, and you push the ends back together for the larger table. it looked like the center section, and ends were kept aligned with dowels.
 
Here's a table my wife inherited. It's probably around 100 years old based on what she found out through her family.

TrTblOps01.jpgTrTblOps02.jpgTrTblOps03.jpgTrTblOps04.jpgTrTblOps05.jpgTrTblOps06.jpg

The imagination of our forefathers is amazing!
 
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