Darren's AM8 Build

Darren Wright

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Springfield, Missouri
Around black friday I saw a Anet A8 on sale for $145 with free shipping from the walmart website, so decided to take the plunge and add a second printer to my line-up. I've been very happy with the current printer, but seems like I load up the table and have to wait until that job finishes before I can start anymore print jobs. For the cost of these printers, I see no different than adding another router or sander to my shop.

I also can setup the second printer with different filaments, such as PETG or ABS and not have to worry so much about getting clogs when going back down to a lower temp filament, which can happen as the hotter temp filaments don't get cleared out of the hot end and aren't at a hot enough temp to melt when they break loose and clog the nozzle.

So why is the labeled the AM8 Build? Well, someone on Thingiverse has designed a new metal frame for the printer, coined the "AM8" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216), to help solve one of the inherit dis-functionalities of the A8, which is flex in the frame. When the frame flexes, the table gets out of square to the hot end and things don't print so well.

The metal frame has metal angle brackets on all the joints, but additional ones for mounting the motors and adding additional support have to be printed (using PETG), I'm also printing some additional upgrades that were used on my original printer (using PLA).

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I printed the last of the parts last night and the metal frame parts should arrive today or tomorrow to start the build. There are a few parts that others have created improvements for, but just starting with the basic AM8 design for now. If I'm happy with the upgrade, I'll probably do the same for the original, maybe even expanding it to a 300 x 300 bed.

Stay tuned.

EDIT:

List of parts I printed and used in in the upgrade to an AM8:

AM8 Frame: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216
1_PSU_Mount.stl
1_Wire_Holder.stl
1_Y_Motor_Mount.stl
1_Y_Rod_Holder_With_Endstop.stl
1_Z_Motor_Mount_Left.stl
1_Z_Motor_Mount_Right.stl
1_Z_Rod_Holder_Left.stl
1_Z_Rod_Holder_Right.stl
2_Bottom_Tee_Plate.stl (only print one, the other will use the one from the Y Chain thing)
2_Top_Corner_Plate.stl
3_Y_Rod_Holder.stl
4_Bottom_Corner_Plate.stl
Anet_Board_Mount_No_Fan.stl (or the fan version, up to you)


The Y belt tensioner with the AM8 Frame file list broke on me, you may have better luck, but I chose the one listed below.


The LCD mount in the AM8 Frame file list works if you put the Anet Control board at the bottom of the frame where the cable is long enough, however it didn't work with the Y Belt tensioner that I chose below either.


Y Cable Chain adapter Tee plate: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2472832
Use the rest of the chain and plate adapter from this thing (which you may be already): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1915486


Mosfet single or dual mounts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2457227


LCD Mount on top: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2528981


Y Belt tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2459058


Need a spring and 4x16 mm hex head bolt and nut, also a couple of washers to shim belt pulley.


Spool holder for on top, use 2040 version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2537713
 
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The extrusions showed up in the mail yesterday, all were precut to the size needed for this upgrade.
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I spent about an hour putting together what I could, then getting the parts that can't be attached yet ready to slide on and tighten down.
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I also printed out an enclosure, that Brent designed, for my octopi/touch-screen, fit perfect, though I will be doing a different mounting bracket to install on the extrusions.
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The printer should arrive later this week along with some shorter screws and thread taps needed to complete the upgrade. I've also bought drylin bearings to replace the ball bearings with and a RepRap carriage plate. I plan to use the newest Marlin firmware which as the Skynet changes incorporated, allowing auto leveling of the bed.
 
UPS Dropped off the printer yesterday, always impressed with seeing how well they pack this kit. Your able to pull out all the parts from the box and they stay reasonably organized until you're ready to use use/assemble them.
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With the current version of the printer, they've actually had the X axis components injection molded, prior these were 3d printed parts. We'll see how they go together, looking much easier as l remember having to do a little filing and reaming of screw holes on the first model.
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I'm still waiting on screws to complete the frame, but worked on a mounting the LCD and motherboard to their mounts.
2017-12-07 21.48.16.jpg

I had planned to swap the linear ball bearings for the Drylin polymer bearings, but needed some different snap ring pliers as mine were too big for these. The Drylin bearings run smoother and much quieter and shouldn't ever wear out, $15 well spent.
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Lastly I had a few parts I needed to print yet for the bed, shims and the Raspberry Pi Camera mount Brent designed. Also a cover for the electrical to house the fuse/switch adapter.
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More to come as I get time this weekend/next week.
 
Interesting to see the evolution of parts from printed to injection molded and refinements. This definitely shows certain Chinese factories have a quality program something like ISO 9000 where they practicing continuous improvement. Kind of brings back the days when i was a kid and Japanese made everything and it was considered crap. By my late teens the same stuff was becoming fine quality like the Techniques hi fi kit that was made by Panasonic or Matsushita Electric the real name behind Panasonic or Techniques.
 
Got my tap and shorter screws today, so was able to assemble the frame tonight. I'm still waiting on the new snap ring pliers, so can't really do much more assembly until those arrive and I can swap out the bearings. I'll probably get some of the wiring done in the mean time and figure out some cabling and cable chain options. I have to say though, the frame is really stout, no flex in it at all. Will probably be upgrading the old printer to this once I have this one going.
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Got my tap and shorter screws today, so was able to assemble the frame tonight. I'm still waiting on the new snap ring pliers, so can't really do much more assembly until those arrive and I can swap out the bearings. I'll probably get some of the wiring done in the mean time and figure out some cabling and cable chain options. I have to say though, the frame is really stout, no flex in it at all. Will probably be upgrading the old printer to this once I have this one going.
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Now I'm starting to get a bit jealous.
 
Not much progress the last few days. I did get the new snap ring pliers, so swapped out all the linear bearings to the polymer ones (on the left).
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I started assembly, but found I need to reprint some bed parts and also get my cable chains ready to install.
 
Lots of wiring in progress. I need to print out some clips and such for wire management, but most are tucking away where the unit can be moved without snagging any.
2017-12-15 21.56.27.jpg

I need to work on some of the main power feed, to the motherboard, setup a couple of power taps for lights and powering the octopi, and finish up the wiring for the bed. I have another table of parts printing for it's cable chains now.
chains_bed.jpg
 
I'm with Rob on this one. Amazing. How much filament ($) have you used to make all these parts?

The blue filament is PETG, it's about $25 a roll, and only used about 1/3rd of that roll, so around $8 - $9.

The yellow filament is PLA, it's around $15 a roll, maybe used 1/10th of that roll, so around $1.50 or so.

So about $10 or less total in filament usage.

As with any of these projects, you end up buying a lot of little pieces of hardware, screws, nuts, etc that all add up. There's probably $50 - $60 in just those, but I have started buying those in bulk since I'm doing more using that stuff.
 
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