How do I do this?

Rennie Heuer

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I have a client that wants a simple shelf, and a few other items, and I thought it might be a good idea to hide the end grain. I've seen this kind of edging done before, but can't figure out the best way to do it. Also, am I just asking for trouble putting on that edging cross grain?

Edge 1.jpg

Second choice would to just do a face grain edging on the front and two ends of the shelf, or just not worry about the end grain. :D

The wood is QSWO.
 
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How wide is the shelf? If it's under a foot, the wood movement will be minimal - especially in a climate controlled environment - so gluing the edging would be acceptable.

If it's a wide shelf, or in an in-conditioned space, then applying the edging like you would a breadboard, but with the front mitered joint glued and the rest floating would be the better way to do it. BTW - no need to put edging on the back.

One more thing: If the shelf itself is plywood, then just edge it all around and don't be concerned with movement.
 
How wide is the shelf? If it's under a foot, the wood movement will be minimal - especially in a climate controlled environment - so gluing the edging would be acceptable.

If it's a wide shelf, or in an in-conditioned space, then applying the edging like you would a breadboard, but with the front mitered joint glued and the rest floating would be the better way to do it. BTW - no need to put edging on the back.

One more thing: If the shelf itself is plywood, then just edge it all around and don't be concerned with movement.

All good questions.
The shelf is about 28" long and 9" deep. It will be solid wood. This customer is restoring an arts & crafts bungalow in Oregon and I've done a few items for him so far. He likes real wood, very dark stain with lots of rays.

My initial thought was to cut the end away leaving that little 45 degree cut at the front of the shelf and fit in the edging. I just can't figure the best way to remove that end and leave a perfect 45 notch.
 
Start with a wider board. Using a thin kerf blade, rip the front edging. and end edging. Miter and glue back. Joinery line should be minimal and this is a lot easier than making that elusive 45º cut.
 
Start with a wider board. Using a thin kerf blade, rip the front edging. and end edging. Miter and glue back. Joinery line should be minimal and this is a lot easier than making that elusive 45º cut.

:doh: I knew I was missing something and making it harder than it needed to be :bow:
 
Why not just glue veneer on the edge? the end grain of it edge will be invisible, basically is what they do when they make shelves with chip board don't they??
 
I have attached 3/4 X 3/4 and smaller strips of solid wood to the edges of plywood to hide the end grain and also to form solid wood cabinet corners on plywood cabinets with no problems. Some of these cabinets were built this way as long as 10 years ago and none of these joints have failed. Most have been 3/4 cabinet birch with soft maple ends/corners, but I have also done this with mahogany faced plywood and solid mahogany. I would not attempt to do this to the ends of solid wood boards, since the width of the boards changes significantly with humidity changes. The end grain of plywood is more stable.

Charley
 
All good questions.
The shelf is about 28" long and 9" deep. It will be solid wood. This customer is restoring an arts & crafts bungalow in Oregon and I've done a few items for him so far. He likes real wood, very dark stain with lots of rays.

My initial thought was to cut the end away leaving that little 45 degree cut at the front of the shelf and fit in the edging. I just can't figure the best way to remove that end and leave a perfect 45 notch.

I'm a lot less skilled than most here but I am a KISS principal guy. Since he wants a very dark finish, I would stain with a dark walnut allowing the stain to soak into the edge cuts. The edges, front and sides would be undercut about 45 degrees also. That would give a modernistic appearance as well.
 
Edge grain on QSWO is not unattractive. I’ve done it bunches of times. Take an offcut, stain and finish it. See what you think and run it by your client. I’d bet it’s no problem. It certainly is a lot less troublesome than trying the alternative.
 
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I would cut the end of the board at he thickness of the edging. Stopping at the back of the 45 miter. Miter the front corner and attach the edging. Mitering can be done a few different ways but for one shelf clamping on a guide block and using a hand saw to cut the miter and finish the end cut is probably fastest.
Think exposed or finished stair tread.
 
Would hiding end grain really be true to the "honesty of design" principle of arts and crafts style? I see plenty of end grain in images of A&C style furniture
 
Lots of interesting perspectives. I may be overthinking this - as I often do, so I think I might first try the easiest method, stay with the exposed end grain. I believe that to be the best starting point.
 
Be sure to do a really good job of sanding that end grain. It must be very smooth. If it isn’t, the grain and stain will look blotchy. Do a good job, and you get to see the continuation of the face grain into the end. It’s a cool effect, especially if the wood is quartersawn.
 
The top of this clock has an interesting way of treating the end. I've read that 'mission' is often associated with the A&C style. It does add some interest to the end of the board and would be easy to do.
mission-style-wall-clock-2.jpg
 

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