Breadboard ends question

What are the guidelines for determining the depth and width of a mortise and tenon for a breadboard end on a table? Or is it arbitrary?

Thanks!

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I have limited experience with breadboard ends, but I did find the following article in Find Woodworking by Mario Rodriguez. Near the end he describes guidelines for the proper proportion. Thanks for the question as the found answer added to my own knowledge base. <<<LINK>>>

I hope this helps.

If I use the sliding dovetail method the pin is only about 1/2" long. If I use a spline I shoot for an inch or so into each mating part; breadboard and top. If I use the mortise and tenon method I go a couple of ways; more common is to cut a full length tenon on the end of the top (again I shoot for about an inch although some folks prefer stubs). This version uses a functional and decorative contrasting spline to cap the slot acting as the mortise in the breadboard.



The alternate is to cut out section of the tenon leaving 2" to 3" wide "flaps" extending from the remaining tenon leaving a continuous stub between.

Does this mean t he end is not glued in place but allowed to 'float'?

Frank Fusco said:

Does this mean t he end is not glued in place but allowed to 'float'?

Click to expand...

Usually, if glued, it's only in the center, letting the ends 'float.'

Often, the center is drilled from below, and pinned with a dowel.

Sometimes, several areas are drilled from below, then the end piece removed, and the holes in the tenons are elongated to allow for movement, then it's reassembled and dowel pinned (no glue, except on the very bottom edge of the dowel).

Just as Jim says. In this case I want the front elevations (the pic is from the rear) to remain constant so the front hole is a tight fit and the first 2 - 3 inches are glued.



The middle hole is elongated and the rear hole is elongated more still. Expansion is to the rear leaving the front consistent through the seasons.

Jim DeLaney said:

Usually, if glued, it's only in the center, letting the ends 'float.'

Often, the center is drilled from below, and pinned with a dowel.

Sometimes, several areas are drilled from below, then the end piece removed, and the holes in the tenons are elongated to allow for movement, then it's reassembled and dowel pinned (no glue, except on the very bottom edge of the dowel).

Click to expand...

Interesting. Thanks.