about negative rake blades

Frank Fusco

Member
Messages
12,782
Location
Mountain Home, Arkansas
In older threads, I recall seeing mention of using negative rake blades on compound slider miter and radial arm saws. These eliminate the 'racing' and lifting effect of standard combination blades. I didn't pay much attention at the time because (I thought) mine cut OK and I didn't need to spend more money on more tools. Wrong! Last time I used my CMSS it lifted and raced sumptin' scary. My hands and the rest of me were safely positioned but I flat guarantee, it got my full attention. After I changed my pants ;) , I decided that a proper blade was now on the want list. Comments and recommendations are sought. e.g. tooth count, make, source, etc. Y'all may sound off now.
 
All about negative rake blades

My saw blades were purchased at a local saw sharpening shop. The owner refused to sell me a dedicated 24-T rip blade for my TS. He said the negative rake on my 50-T combination blade (coupled with the 5hp motor in the saw) made it unnecessary.

There's a lot more to the negative rake aspect, and I'm new to woodworking. But it is a newer design feature and has improved performance. I think it has something to do with chip clearance on saws and on router bits. I'm interested to see what the guys on this forum have to say.

Gary Curtis
 
Frank,

I'll be interested in hearing some owners feedback as well. I have been thinking about this for my non-slider CMS. Some folks say not to use them on non-sliders. Forrest was all about them at a recent show and recommended the Chopmaster for sliders and non-sliders alike.
 
I use one on my RAS. Don't have a CMS but I am sure they are similar. Mine is a 12" DeWalt 50 or 60 tooth (guessing) blade. It made a big difference in the self feeding on the saw. I believe this one to be 0 degree rake and not negative. It was not clearly labeled. But it only has a very slight tendency to self feed. Cuts are very smooth too. After seeing what this will do, never ever going to back to a positive rake blade on my RAS.
 
I got one of those blades too, and while they are pricey, they last along time too. It also makes a huge difference on grabbing. As you may or may not know, I make a lot of custom wooden models so the parts I cut are often very small. Having a blade that won't grab is definitely worth the extra money...at least for me.
 
Freud Blade

Freud LU91R010 10-Inch 60-Tooth Thin Kerf Sliding Compound Miter Saw Blade

-5 degree about $60 at Amazon

I switched to one some months ago and it is great.
 
Top