Torsion box question. Now progress reports.

Ahhhh! Hadn't considered the foam trying to glue itself to the adhesive. That would be bad!!:doh: OK, so trip to HD before I start that.
And yes, your method to keep the material from slipping away from the "target" area makes sense. It will probably force me to do the top skin with the torsion box on the cabinet structure, but that might be easier anyway, I can use the vertical posts for the backer/fence, DSCN1498.jpgand just put a spacer between it and the torsion box. This method would allow me to cut the laminate a little closer to the finish size so I'm not taking so much off with the router flush trim bit. I was afraid that cutting too much with a 1/2" trim bit might snag and chip or tear the laminate during that process. And I do have a bit...2 infact. One of the Woodcraft green ones, and then an old Craftsman 1/4" shank from a kit that has never been used. Only 20 or so years old! I might still see about getting a new one. I've used the Woodcraft one on quite a bit of OSB, and I'm a little afraid it might be dull enough to not make a clean cut, or worse.
Thanks for the great ideas, Norman! They will save a lot of frustration! Jim.
 
Ok, I've got the 4 end caps glued down and curing. Which raises a question I should have asked yesterday. :doh: How long should this cure before I can route the edges flush? It's one of those "can't go to step 4 until step 3 is finished" things. And while we're on the trimming subject, :rolleyes: what speed should I set the router at? My PC 8529 is still having speed adjustment problems (I haven't fixed it yet). If I need more than about 15 or 16,000 rpm, I'll break out the PC 7518. Just figure it is a little overkill for this project, though.
Thanks again guys! I appreciate all the help you are offering. But you forgot to tell me not to use a plastic cup for the adhesive! :eek::eek::eek: :D:D:D Jim.
 
Oh well, I guess I found out about the plastic cup like the first person that did it found out! :D Ok, so I don't have to wait to trim. That will make things go a little faster. I cleaned up my trim bit, put it back in the 8529............who said silence is golden? Guess they weren't turning on a tool expecting noise! Nothing at any speed. So I come in the house and grab the box for the 7518. Cut the tape (yep, never been opened) found Amazon had stuck some catalogs in under the flap, look at coupon on catalog....expired 6/27. Of 2003!!!!! Hmmmm.
Ok, so I plug it in, and it purrs to life. Actually quieter than the 8529! But man is that thing a hoss! Guess my arms will get a work out, huh?
Guess I should get back to it. Thanks a bunch! Jim.
 
Ok, here's where I stopped tonight. I took 3 pictures, came in, all 3 are fuzzy. Went and took 3 more, again all fuzzy. And the battery is charged.:huh: I did the 2 end caps first so that the front edge would cover the cut piece. DSCN1633.jpgDSCN1632.jpg Got all 3 edges done on both tops. I'll do the top skins tomorrow. If I can find it, I have some plastic putty that is just about the right color of green. I might try to fill the seams and see what it looks like. It is probably dried out. I used it making a couple custom HO scale cement cars back when my hobby was HO trains. I'll see if it is still any good, if I can find it at all! Have a good evening everyone! Jim.
 
Normans idea on the stop/fence is a good one. I do basically the same thing.

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Steve, what a coincidence, I've used exactly the same setup shown in your pictures when I was covering something that had one edge that didn't have a banding of wood or laminate already on it, but switched to my current setup after the time when I was real tired and not paying attention and screwed the fence jig right into the nice Oak banding instead of the unbanded side.:doh: :eek: :eek: (Don't ask me how ANYONE could do something so STUPID when you're looking right at it.):dunno: I guess the lights were on, but I just wasn't home.:huh: It's funny now, but it sure wasn't at the time.:D
 
The torsion box is looking good, Jim. :thumb: Isn't it cool seeing that first trimmed edge in the laminate?

I will always be greatful to my high school shop teacher for talking me into putting laminate on a couple of MDF monitor speaker boxes I made way back when. As a result, I learned about contact cement (the letting it dry on both halves before assembly trick) and router flush trim bits (magic the first time you see it work). Those are two pieces of basic shop knowledge that have come in handy over the years. ;)
 
Funy, Vaughn. I learned about letting contact cement dry before sticking together on woofer boxes...but we used ozite instead of laminate. Too many people want to spray it and stick it. Then wonder why they got this hard surface in their carpeted box. The glue being wet just soaks into the ozite, ruining the effect of blending into the carpet in the vehicle. I have used the flush trim bits before, in fact when cutting the OSB for the window openings in the shop. I had fogotten about that and that I had that 5.00 Woodcraft bit. I've definately made my money on that one! I'd say goodnight, but I have a feeling you're just getting going. :rofl: Jim.
 
Well, I cut off early today, we went and ate a big meal out, and the dogs have had their evening meal and the back yard picked up. Thought I'd share a picture of the tops. DSCN1637.jpg I'm happy with how they came out. Now to make the "fence" section of the cabinets and decide what material to use for the top. I need to take into consideration the t-track I have to mount up there. Will need some more MDF. Hope everyone had a great weekend. I'm not looking forward to going back to work. Funny what 1 extra day off does to you! Jim.
 
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