tod, doors

Reg Mitchell

Member
Messages
328
Tod I am getting ready to build some interior doors for an old house. I would like to build mission style doors. Got any tips hints or tecneques (spelling)
I woudl like to be able to put catheral glass in the doors in the panels
Reg
 
Man, I'm looking forward to this thread.... I plan on making some doors when we get our new place in Japan, in our "Meji era" part of the house. Thanks, Reg! :thumb:
 
mornin` reg,
doors ain`t rocket science! i did a kind of tutotorial on smc about a year ago.
here`s a link;
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=42498&highlight=doors+hillbilly
i can`t view pictures over there any longer so if i`ve left anything out or you have any questions by all means holler!
sorry but i take pics as i`m doing stuff, post `em then delete `em, so i`d either have to build another door or mock up a glue up to get the pics here.
if somebody wants to do a screen shot of my posts and pictures and post them here i give my permission......although i don`t know if keiths permission would be required too?
tod
 
Thanks tod. Am I correct in that you dado the slot in the length of a rail and then glue the Two rail halves together. Then drill the holes in the stiles to fit the althred through? This is, as i understand it, a rail that is made up os glued up pieces.
Question 2.
What type of shaper knives or head do you use to make the groves for your panels and could you mod it for glass panels so if broken they could be taken out and replaced.
I remembered the thread and liked it a lot, very smart, but couldn't remember where it was.
My doors will be made from eighter ash or white oak. All the door frameing will be built in the shop, no pre-hung stuff. I want to make it all like they are original but useing your method of putting the doors together so they won't come apart
Reg
P.S I would do a screen shot but dont have that type of program
 
reg,
first glue up a "core" using 1x material then laminate a face of 3/16-5/16 onto one side, then dado for allthread....after cutting the dados laminate the other face.
any type of cope-n-stick cutters can be used as well as a simple groover...after assembly remove one side of your pattern to allow you to insert glass then run just the profile on some loose sticks, miter and install.
make sence?
 
Tod you are getting forgetful :D

If you remember, way back then, I wanted to keep my own copy of this door making tutorial, as I was looking at replacing a door at a rental unit, so you e-mailed me the pics and descriptions, I've got them on my computer here somewhere.....:huh: I think I saved it as a word file, I'll look.

The questions and answers from the SMC thread are not there, but the pics and your descriptions of what you do are, I think, let me see if I can find it.....:wave:
 
I go it Tod.:thumb: Thanks for the info. I will be reflooring the few rooms first before attempting the doors. I will let everyone look as I put them together and let you see how they turn out. I hope the look as good as yours and they should be plenty sturdy.:D
Reg
 
Ian,

Instead of leaving your request hanging in cyberspace until tod gets to the shop in the morning, with tod's permission I'll give you a little sneak preview of his current flooring project:

MVC-498S.jpg.....MVC-499S.jpg.....MVC-500S.jpg

Reg,

Hopefully you don't mind the thread hijack. But it was you that mentioned flooring, so I didn't think you'd mind. You (or tod) can start a new thread in the morning if you think there's need or interest! :thumb:

On behalf of tod...
- Marty -
 
Yea Tod that would be a great Idea. Its a little late for the 3 rooms of flooring I already ordered wood for but I am game for the upstairs later.
It's ok Marty I like salids. :p They have alittle bit of everything in them but they're still salids. Just like woodworking. Little bit of everything but still wood working. :thumb:
This is a great place to hang out and learn

Reg
 
should i start another thread? or are the pictures marty posted enough explanation?
the wood is #2 common walnut (50cents a foot:D ) and the substraight is 20x20 baltic birch. the wear layer is 5/16 which is the same as solid wood strip flooring. the flooring is sanded by the widebelt, puttyed, back through the sander then glued to the subfloor. nuthin` dificult just lotsa pieces and glue.
tod
 
That is a great idea tod. Thete is a pallet makeing company down the road. They cut 4X4's abd 6X6's on a regular basis. now I bet that would look so cool for end grain doing the same thing and haveing end grained oak.
Give us some moor pics tod I might think about doing my shop floors like that. :thumb:
Reg
 
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