width of stairs?

Chris Mire

Member
Messages
945
Location
Southern Louisiana
what is a standard or even a comfortable width for a set of stairs. i am starting to think of the stairs in my future home that will be built next year. they will be a very open modern design with a wall on one side and rail on the other. i believe i saw on a code sheet that the minimum would be 36". this seems like it could feel kinda tight. i was thinking at least 42"

i am gonna sketch my idea for the stairs in sketchup because that is a totally different question....whether my idea is veasible.

thanks for any help
chris
 
Check you local building codes as they probably vary, here the minimum is 36" but like Steve and Tod already mentioned they can be a bit tight.

Also (if it matters) you will need a minimum of a 36" landing at bottom and top of stairs, but again check your code...they vary.
 
thanks tod and steve....i am already trying to stretch the plan to make the stairs wider. i had planned to go with a spiral stair when the 2nd story was just going to be a loft office, but it has since changed to a bed and bath up there. so i was thinking of bigger furniture and getting it up there...not easy with a spiral stair. so i am thinking at least 42" maybe even 48

i'll post the design when i have it done.

thanks
 
Different areas have different standards, 36" is normal stair treads for assending and decending the basement and the upstairs and all these are not "Tight" just normal. Given that the 42" or 48 " tread is a more comfortable width but it requires an additional Stringer and a hand rail is require on Both sides where the 36" only "Requires" one side. In some communities any larger stair width may require a center handrail as well.

Most home construction includes the 36 tread because the builder can get by with only two stringers, a minimum of 36" is necessary to allow for moving appliances (Washers, dryers, etc are usually in the 32" width which will allow 2" clearance on either side.
 
I think you will find 42" to be a good size. My work takes me in a lot of homes and I agree that a 36" is adequate but small. If would shoot for 42" assuming it's a straight shot.
 
i had planned to go with a spiral stair when the 2nd story was just going to be a loft office, but it has since changed to a bed and bath up there. so i was thinking of bigger furniture and getting it up there...not easy with a spiral stair.

I detest spiral stairs. In addition to being very tight to move around, I usually find that they have inadequate head room. (I'm 6'3")

Thankfully they aren't common, so I admit I haven't climbed that many of them. But every time I've climbed a standard (ie: a tight circle) spiral stair, I have to do so with my head at an awkward angle.

That'd be a deal killer for me in looking at a house.
 
sketchup model...sort of

ok here is a really quick-n-dirty (if i can steal a phrase from marty) model of what i would like to do for a stair case in my future home. basically it would be 3 stringers (i know i only show 2 but) and instead of the open stairs i have seen before where the treads are mortised into the sides, i want to cut slots in the stringers and slip the treads in, therefore the tread would kinda be cantilevered out a few inches past the stringer. hope that makes sense.

stairs.JPG

does anyone see any pitfalls or obstacles in this design.

one that i can think of is finding a nice hardwood long enough for the stringers. i really want to use walnut, but doubt i can get it that long.

as always thanks for the help and info
chris
 
chris, the pitfalls i see right up front is that both the treads and stringers if cut out of solid will try their darndest to warp.......if you where to use a glue-up for the componants they`d be much more stable and if done correctly hardly noticable...
tod
 
I se no different between your stringers than the usual zig-zag cut (big difference is you are cutting "zig" but not the "zag", so to speak) As most stringers are coupled to a side wall and that provides stability, I would opt for thicker (& wider) material Also the tread are not supported by the risers so there is a weakness issue so a thicker tread material might also be considered.

The Stringers, as you have them, will support 36" -38" treads, iof you go wider as you earlier mentioned, I think you need to either got Large or add a third.

IMHO
 
The Idea Looks nice Chris, and I guess I'm always one to "Overbuild", so although it would be more work, if it were me, I ......Might Consider.... the following method, (which I think "Might be stronger overall, (even if you use three stringers).

Notch out the stringers from where the top of the tread is shown going into the stringer, straight down to the bottom of the tread, then dado both sides of the stringer from that point toward the back, where the tread would go. Next, notch the treads (only where they slide into the dado), so they would slide into the dado. This would still look exactly like the way you have it drawn, but give added support to the stringers, AND give solid support to the front part of the tread, AND support to the treads also where they fit into the dados.

Anyhow, just another idea with a different twist.:dunno::D
 
tod,
what type of lamination are you suggesting, i'm open to ideas. especially if it makes them stronger.

bill,

i would definitely use 3 stringers, i thought about it after i drew it and was too lazy to fix it. as shown in the model the treads are 2" thick, and I would want them no thinner than 1.5" for a beefy look. i would think any decent hardwood at that thickness even over a span of 42" would still be pretty stout. thanks for the input

norman,

took me a few reads to get your idea into my stubborn head, but i think i got it now. that is definitely another way to do it, and actually similiar to one of the ways i was considering accomplishing it. thanks for the idea


this is still just a thought in my head. my main concern is that the stairs be of an open design, i like modern stuff, and this would give me the look i want.

i am still toying with the idea of having a metal "I" beam be the stringers and set some sort of hardwood treads on that.

thanks for chiming in
chris
 
I hate to rain on your design. Open back stairs, (no riser) like you have designed are no longer code compliant. No space on the stair case may have an opening greater than 4".
You will need a false riser to hang down atleast 2 inches under the tread. I have also seen glass risers used.
Not sure what other options might work.

Richard
 
tod, thanks i had seen that thread back at smc and earlier when someone revived it. i thought that might be what you meant. thanks for the help


richard, you're not raining on my design, when i checked for the code for width i saw that 4" requirement, i have a plan for that. thanks for the reminder.


thanks for the info
chris
 
I hate to rain on your design. Open back stairs, (no riser) like you have designed are no longer code compliant. No space on the stair case may have an opening greater than 4".
You will need a false riser to hang down atleast 2 inches under the tread. I have also seen glass risers used.
Not sure what other options might work.

Richard

Richard, I'm just Curious as to why they changed the code, as open stairs are in use all over the world in the more modern designs. They were very popular in many places I've been in Europe in both commercial buildings, and in the newer built more expensive homes, as well as the other continents too.:huh:
 
That would be "Who's code is it?" Although most are similar, Different municipalities have different restrictions. I too have seen several homes with open stairs (although they were older homes of modern design) I figure the reason is for the tykes, dont want kiddies slipping through the riser space and kerplunkin' or worse. My sister had a main stairway with open tread. Dog wouldn't go up them, Our elderly aunt wouldn't try to assend them as she says got dizzy from "looking through the holes" I usually hung my toe when assending. So, there are several reasons one should consider when deciding to build open tread stairs. I'm sure there are many more. :dunno:
 
All the stair codes changed in 2001, I believe. It's all about saftey and sometimes difficult to understand the logic.
Commercial codes are different than residential.

Richard
 
Top