Maple Cabinets, Staircase, base trim

hi steve

cabinets look great. if i may ask a question about the corner section of the kitchen. what is the reason for setting the front of the corner cabinet back from the front of the other cabs? i have never seen it done this way and i was just curious if it was a functional reason or if it was design driven.

thanks
chris

Thats a new way to deal with corner sinks.
My first one like this. I had quite a time figuring out how, what size sink cab to make there. :eek: Ended up to be a 30" sink box, instead of the usual 36". Sink, countertops will be corian type counters.

Why it is done this way, is to not have all that wasted, hard to reach countertop space behind the sink. Plus the fact there is a kitchen window there.
 
thanks steve

i figured it must have something to do with functionality. thanks for the quick reply.

another question for ya, how do you keep from getting burns in your stop flutes? i believe i read earlier you were using a router for this. i have never been able to do them without burns at the entry and exit points. if you get them, do you have a good method of removing them, this is also something i haven't had much luck with.

thanks
chris
 
thanks steve

i figured it must have something to do with functionality. thanks for the quick reply.

another question for ya, how do you keep from getting burns in your stop flutes? i believe i read earlier you were using a router for this. i have never been able to do them without burns at the entry and exit points. if you get them, do you have a good method of removing them, this is also something i haven't had much luck with.

thanks
chris

Lol. Burns marks on stopped flutes. Its touch and go sometimes.
Almost impossible to avoid.
The large panels by the sink were with a router and guide.
First pass I start, stop, an inch or so in.
Then back up to the start point,which will be climb cutting. It helps, but doesn't stop all of the burns.

I use a dremel tool to lightly sand out the burn marks on lighter colored wood. Darker wood, like these stained maples, the burn marks don't show up much.
 
Went over this morning and got the crown on the uppers finished up.
Installed all the shelving, scrib strips.
Toe kicks cut out for floor vents, and installed.
Kitchen is ready for the tile installer, and corian installer, and plumber.

So I'll be back here in the shop for the rest of the week.
Staining, finishing 1500 of base molding.
Making 18 maple window sills.
Pre cutting and finishing 16 risers and treads.
Stair toe boards, trim, etc.
Making tread bull nosing.
Making two built-in living room cabinets, and a mantel
 
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looking better and better

steve, what are the guides for the pullouts mounted to?

thanks
chris


Chris. Those are a set of stands that I purchase from HDL Wholesale.
Any slide will attach to them.
They carry 1", 1-1/4, and 2" widths.

I can get you the part # if interested.

Most of them out there are around $40.00 per cabinet. So I usually made mine. But these are around $12.00, by the box of 20, so I purchase these now. Very easy to install.
 
yes very interested, until now i have always just made wooden pieces to mount them to. however, what kind of clearance do they allow for? I typically use Blum 120 hinges for doors, and i usually build my pullouts so that they fit inside the outer most part of the hinges. i think this is usually about 1-1/2" from the inside of the frame.

i am sure those would be quicker and might look cleaner than the wooden ones i do.


thanks again
chris
 
I use salice hinges, so I need a 1/2" clearance for the pullout from the inside of FF.


Heres the HDL link.
http://hdlusa.com/

They also have a retail site.
 
Todays progress

Got all the base molding and window sills with crown finished in the shop.
So I loaded everything and delivered to the big house project.

Installed 18 maple windows sills w/ crown, and 4 without crown.

Tile installer had the kitchen area all tiled, but not grouted.
So no base molding was installed today :(

Two of these pics are in the sun room of the house, off the kitchen.

Sun room end is sittings on piers. Notice the window sill that the painters missed :( getting the wall finished under the sill. See any sag in the floor and window? :eek:

Just eyeballing it, I think it has sagged about an inch. Wonder how much glass is going to pop when they have to jack it up :huh:

$400,000 house with a sagging floor :dunno:
 
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Tomorrows plan is to deliver the finished risers and treads [maple].

Install a 23' wall shelf in the entry hall where the wall went from a 6" wall to a 4" wall upstairs.
Then hopefully the tile installer got all the tile down and grouted so I can get some baseboard done. 1500' of base, 4 1/4 base with 1 1/4 upper trim on top of the base, with lots of corners, is going to take a few days.
 
Wednesday's update

Went to the house wednesday planning on installing a LOT of base.
The doors were to be all hung. But---------------------:(
They were there installing the doors.

So after working around them for four hours, I moved the Island into place from the living room where I had it stored till the tile guy got the kitchen done. He did have the grouting all done, and somewhat left a mess of my base cabinets.:( So------------------------------

I just packed up and came home.
Maybe next week will go better.
 
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looking great steve. the job is coming along nicely.

i was wondering about the doors for these cabinets. did i miss a mention of it in this thread. are you doing them last? are you outsourcing them? maybe they are built and sitting in your shop. sorry if i missed something.

thanks
chris
 
looking great steve. the job is coming along nicely.

i was wondering about the doors for these cabinets. did i miss a mention of it in this thread. are you doing them last? are you outsourcing them? maybe they are built and sitting in your shop. sorry if i missed something.

thanks
chris

Hi Chris.
I'm saving the doors to do till last, which I usually do with most jobs.
I have base and trim, a staircase, couple of living room cabinets, fireplace mantel, etc, to do yet.
I usually try to get done what is necessary, get everything functioning, in case the homeowners decide to move in on top of me before I get completely done. I've had that to happen before.
Moving furniture and unloading kitchen drawers to put hardware on isn't my bag.;)

I always leave the doors to last. Just me :huh: :dunno: :D

Oh. Doors will be Raised panel, straight top rails.
 
steve,

i agree that doors should definitely be last. especially if what you mentioned happening has happened before. nothing like trying to work with the homeowner on top of you and all their stuff in your way.

looking forward to seeing the finished product.

thanks
chris
 
Hey Steve,
You have a lot of nice work there to be proud of, but it really sucks when you need to follow a sequence like 'base after doors set' and the people setting the doors are not done when they are supposed to be. That lack of coordination in a big job like yours can take the fun out of it especially if you have been serious and done your job as expected and on time. Hang in there, and good sleeping.
Shaz
 
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