Woodpecker PRL installation question

Jim O'Dell

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Between Aledo and Fort Worth, TX
Anyone here have the PRL of Unilift from Woodpecker? I'm looking to see how wide the lip is in the table top for the plate to sit on. I'm going to make mine 3/4", then cut out for the plate mechanism to fit if need be. But if that is too big, it would be nice to know before I start, then have to modify after the ledge is cut. Thanks! Jim.
 
My lip is 1/2". (Actually, my lips are a litle bigger than that but that's a different story. :D)

Lip on table is 1/2". However the distance for the edge of the PRL plate to the nearest obstruction is 1 1/6".

hth
 
Wassa PRL? Router lift.
Wassa Unilift? Router lift.
Wassa Woodpecker? Router lift manufacturer :D

Here's a picture of the PRL:PRL.jpg This unit comes made for the Porter Cable 7518 motor. Adaptors will allow certain other brands to work. Unilift seems to be made to work with plunge routers.

I'll check mine in the morning. Off the top of my head I think it's around 5/8".

So you left the lip the width of the router bit then, right? If so, my 3/4" should be fine.

Mark, I didn't want to comment about your lips. But from your avitar, I'd agree, 1/2" isn't close! :rofl: Thanks for the information!!

Bartee, I have the template also, and believe me, it will be a well spent 10.00! I was wanting to see how much support I could leave without interference. Looks like I could have allowed for some more, but the 3/4" should be adequate. I'm using 2 layers of 3/4" MDF for the table, and could ad a third smaller piece directly under the router area.
Thanks everyone! Jim.
 
Slightly related; My 5625 has been hanging from a 1/2" lip for a couple of years. No problems and I have it and other routers in and out frequently. I would think with the PRL lift (same one I'm eyeing, or maybe the QL) there would be no problem with your 3/4" as far as support goes.

The problem I did have was sag over the span of the top. My table top is now "over" supported. Some support ribs built into my new cabinet design solved that. The dotted lines are doubled-up 3/4" BB ply on edge. Slam-bang drawing, not very accurate but, you get the idea.
 

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So you left the lip the width of the router bit then, right? If so, my 3/4" should be fine.
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The Woodhaven Angle-Ease fits the PRL hole exactly. If I recall it was the AE that made me end up going with 5/8" and not the PRL. As long as it doesn't interfere with anything mounted underneath you could go as big as you want. After routing out the rabbet depth I think I just drilled a large hole in each corner (set in the distance of the ledge I wanted to leave) for blade entry then set the jigsaw on a piece of ply straddling the opening and cut to lines I had marked.
 
Good point, Glenn. My main table frame is 31 1/2 X 39 1/2. There will be 2 additional braces running length wise, and 3 more running width wise inside this frame. The 2 running length wise will go beyond the frame to support the overhang. All braces are 3/4" oak veneer ply. Where they cross forming a grid under the router, they will butt up to the router chamber, allowing it to mount to the cross members, not hang off the table top, therefore taking that weight off the top. I cut the braces yesterday, and need to mark the locations and half lap them to install.
Thanks for the info, Doug! Jim.
 
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Jim,

I've got a similar setup. Believe it or not, all that metal (and the router) gets pretty heavy. So, if you're using 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF (like I did the first time) make sure it's well supported. There's nothing worse then a saggy router table top! My first one ended up with more than an eighth of an inch sag over just 40 inches. Ended up having to rebuild the whole top, framed in hardwood this time. What a hassle!

Oh, and don't trust those templates. Yes, they'll get it close, like within a sixteenth. You won't believe how much sawdust can get into a sixteenth gap! :doh:

Thanks,

Bill
 
Here's a picture of the PRL:View attachment 12425 This unit comes made for the Porter Cable 7518 motor. Adaptors will allow certain other brands to work. Unilift seems to be made to work with plunge routers.



So you left the lip the width of the router bit then, right? If so, my 3/4" should be fine.

Mark, I didn't want to comment about your lips. But from your avitar, I'd agree, 1/2" isn't close! :rofl: Thanks for the information!!

Bartee, I have the template also, and believe me, it will be a well spent 10.00! I was wanting to see how much support I could leave without interference. Looks like I could have allowed for some more, but the 3/4" should be adequate. I'm using 2 layers of 3/4" MDF for the table, and could ad a third smaller piece directly under the router area.
Thanks everyone! Jim.

Thanks. It really helps to know what is being discussed.
 
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