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Pushing wood when face jointing

Duncan Cheslett said:
Anybody ever tried a power feed on a jointer when face jointing?

Just a thought...
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I run 2 jointers with power feeders - one for facing, one for edging. On both, the feeder is 100% on the outfeed side. Saves a ton of time (heavier cuts no problem) and effort. Also lets you handle long boards - like having a helper keeping pressure in the right spot and pushing it through. It is possible to finesse difficult boards by using strategic shims to keep the feeder from following a twist.
 
John Rutter said:
I run 2 jointers with power feeders - one for facing, one for edging. On both, the feeder is 100% on the outfeed side. Saves a ton of time (heavier cuts no problem) and effort. Also lets you handle long boards - like having a helper keeping pressure in the right spot and pushing it through. It is possible to finesse difficult boards by using strategic shims to keep the feeder from following a twist.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have it figured out John, got any pics :D (we like pics!).

BTW, welcome to the family! :wave:
 
Here are some pics of the jointer setups. This has worked well for the last year and a half, but as I get busier, I'm starting to look more closely at small moulders. I really want to keep control over milling and not rely on suppliers to get lumber mostly sorta almost flat. But yeah, the feeders work really well on jointers.

This seems like a good group over here. Looking forward to participating.

-JR
 

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Always put pressure on the outfeed table after crossing the knives by six inches or so. It's the proper way to do things and helps to get the flatness you're looking for. I have a Sueri Alfredo 300mm jointer with a four Tersa knife head and always buy my lumber in the rough. If you buy S4S from the supplier you will not have flat boards to work with.

Anyway, if you're meeting too much resistance change the knives and wax the tables. It's always surprising to me how much easier it is to push the work over sharp knives.
 
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