Wood rack on block walls

Tod, your not helping!

Did have a thought. The rack has plywood on each side. Maybe I could extend that and attach it to the floor joists. Just live with the spacing.

I think if I were in your shoes, I'd build a new saw table, or modify the one you have, so that the rack could go all the way to the floor... But I'm pretty conservative that way. A shop I worked for about 10 years ago had a similar rack to the design you're considering, only with 2x4's on the sides instead of plywood. Held up a lot of lumber, mostly mesquite (kinda heavy), but over the years, the brackets became loose and a little saggy. For large loads, I'm a fan of metal racks, whether the pricey LV ones or home-made deals using unistrut and welded up brackets.

Sorry man, looks like I'm not helping either!

BTW, that is one sweet unisaw!

Bob, if you're going to build that again, could I have your old one?

I have a free standing now Bob and trying to get away from it. Your is nice but I have wasted space over the saw and I want to use it.

After Christmas I am going to start building two kayaks. That takes a lot of floor space. I want to free the current wood rack area up so I can build them where it is. I could build them in the middle but I want to leave space to pull in a vehicle to work on it if needed. As old as my truck is it probably will be needed too!

jeff i have seen tods rack and its design should work for you hanging from the joist the only thing i would suggest is to anchor with bolts to the joist's the spaceing on the structure can be more than the small one listed in wood mag.. the best way to desrcibe it is a wood ply f shape with more fingers coming off rather than just 2 like a f would have. the gluing of ply together is very strong and tod showed me that!!!! the force would be downward and some what towards your block wall but its nothing like the force the ground is placing on tyhe blocks now...

Dave Richards said:

Bob, if you're going to build that again, could I have your old one?

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"Sure, you can have it, you pay shipping..................but you will have to load my new one with 1,000 board feet of very expensive wood located at my place, at your expense."

Beleive I got all the bases covered
1.) My Place
2.) Your expenses
3.) Board feet, expensive

Let my lawyer check out the above before we get going
will get back with you

I was looking at the shelf unit that has the plug-in arms that you posted as well as the rendering of the legs hanging from the ceiling. The issues that I see are the joist locations and the wall space are all not aligning. That being said, the two areas of required strength are 1. support the downward weight and 2. support the weight that wants to tip out at the top. My solution would be to anchore a base rail along the wall sitting on the table back. This will give you plenty of strenght for the load to sit on. The next thing would be to anchor the legs in the positions along the wall that work best for the wall. The legs should be tall enough to reach the joist but not go past them. The final step will be to capture the tipping motion. Run another rail along the bottom of the joist. Slide the rail snug up against the top of the legs and secure the rail to all of the joist. If you run the rail out past the legs by one additional joist it will add to the strength. Hope this is clear enough.

Mike

Mike Pung said:

....The final step will be to capture the tipping motion. .

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Give that man a cigar!

I have been thinking about a ledger board along the top of the table. Let the racks rest on that. If needed I could pull out the tables. Probably unload the bulk of the rack to be safe if I ever had to do this. Doubtful though.

Running a strip along the joists is so obvious but I couldn't see it. Your rght, that would hold back the forward force.

I think we have idea here!

Regarding the pipe "shelves" I used pipe also on my lumber rack, but added some foam pipe insulator tubes to the pipes to protect the wood.

Sorry for being late with a couple of pictures.

This is my 1st lumber rack over my cutoff bench.




Here is a closer picture. These are 2x4's with 1/4" toggle bolts into the concrete block. The gussets are from an old sheet of 1/2" ply that I have had for about 15 years in the basement. The gussets are glued and screwed.



If I had a current picture you would see it very full of wood.

Oh year, I put an old piece of wire shelving on the lowest of the brackets to hold misc stuff. Like small piece of wood.

The next thing I am going to try is shelving brackets I saw a Lowes. These look pretty solid and are not too much. Like $5 per bracket for a 14" bracket. Well more on that later. I have to build the wall they go on 1st.

Dave Richards said:

Bob, if you're going to build that again, could I have your old one?

Click to expand...

And the wood. Don't forget the wood.