Tile flooring question

Ed Nelson

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Charlotte, NC
This isn't wood related, but I'm hoping we have some tile experts here. I will be laying tile for a client in his kitchen, DR and LR. The LR is stepped down. What type of nosing should I use at the step down? Here's a sketch for an idea of what I'm talking about.
 

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I did that once just like you drew it. I just overlapped the horizontal tiles to where they were flush with the vertical tiles and left a gap for a grout line. It came out nice with no visible brake from vertical to horizontal.
 
In my small experience, it depends on what type of tile you are using. Ceramic tyle may not have the glazing all the way down the edges of the tile. If not, it might look odd just lapping it over the vertical edge. Check with your tile supplier, there may be a matching or even contrasting edge piece or bull nose tile that can be used at the edge. Contrasting color might be good as a warning the the level changes here.
If the sides of the tile are glazed, then I'd do it like Allen suggested and it would look very nice. Just check the tile that your customer has picked out to know the best way to go. Jim.
 
If there is a bullnose available then use Jim's method If no Bullnose then follow Allen. Remember to use the tile edge not the cut edge if you have to cut (as it is closer to a rolled over or bullnose than a cut edge would be. also remember to keep the Tread part of the step on top of the riser.
 
Thanks guys. I can't use the edge of the tile. They are ceramic and not glazed down the edge. I'll have to find some type of nosing. The clients are sourcing the material from HD. I'll probably have to help them out with locating something to use as nosing.
 
Actually Ed, Sometimes they don't look too bad. Mock up a piece or two and see if it is OK with the Client. I have seen it both ways.
 
Wet tile saw and a 45 degree cuts? Tile saws are pretty cheap now and do a good job. I have done a lot of tile work but never tired this. But the more I think about it I don't like it. The edges would probably chip.

Never mind. :eek:
 
I'll have to find some type of nosing. The clients are sourcing the material from HD. I'll probably have to help them out with locating something to use as nosing.

ummm, yer kidding right?

Just my 2 cents, but if they're sourcing it, its their problem. Or in the words of my late father "you getting paid for this?"

That said, if it were my problem, and I were interested in helping them solve it, I'd probably use a nice contrasting bullnose tile, or perhaps make something out of natural stone that would serve the same purpose - that way it doesn't have to match per se, just has to look good. I've also seen tile cut into thin strips to go around curves with thin grout lines in between, a variation on what Allen and Bill have suggested - perhaps there's an idea waiting down that way.
 
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Yep, they're sourcing it and Im getting paid for the installation. They are also friends and I'm willing to take an extra step or two for them. I'd probably take an extra step for most clients though. I have always hated when I'm told "that's your problem". Heck, I know it's my problem, but that's why I ask someone else for help. Going an extra step or two also pays forward!

A contrasting bullnose is what I would really like to find. I'll see if they have had any luck today and see what I can come up with for them.
 
ummm, yer kidding right?

Just my 2 cents, but if they're sourcing it, its their problem. Or in the words of my late father "you getting paid for this?"


Sense when is going the steps necessary to see that the client gets the best job or exactly what they want, Not "you getting paid for this?" That is part of the "Getting Paid" responsibilities. I disagree with your father's attitude that any extra steps or concerns needs to be paid. That attitude is what has depleted the Craftsmanship attitude of too many of today's service providers.

Not my job! What if school teachers took that attitude and punched out at the end of the day. Would any homework be graded or assigned? Any test made up or lessons prepared? Your kids would be lumps reading from prepared by the state books where the teacher just took roll and assigned tasks.

Sorry to get off on a tangent, no offence to your late father but this kind of attitude where one must be paid additionally for providing a quality job rather than just adequate compliance to the requirement burns my tail.
 
I've been doing a little thinking on this and I think what I may do is face the riser with wood riser and make a wood bullnose. That will soften the tile a little and define the room separation a little. I presented this to the clients and they are going to give the idea some thought. I suggested they check with some of the tile specialty shops in the area and see what they recommend.
 
I suggested they check with some of the tile specialty shops in the area and see what they recommend.

I think that is a really good idea. We have a tile place here that has a retail shop that has a lot of tile combinations glued up so you can shop for ideas and see how they look. Then you purchase and pick up at their warehouse. The price is just about as good as anyone in the area if not better.
 
Well Ed, sounds like you've got your reasons for doing a bit extra, just beware of under-bidding yourself by allowing what a lot of guys would bill as a change order. The wood sounds like the perfect solution, you might even have some around already :rofl:
 
The wood sounds like the perfect solution, you might even have some around already :rofl:

I just might at that!:thumb: Actually I don't have any, but for 12' the materials won't be too much. Don't worry, I'll be billing them for the work, just not for the help in coming up with a solution!
 
ed, how will you make the transition from the thickness of the wood, assuming 3/4" here and the tile which is 3/8", 1/2" at most with mortar underneath?

chris
The wood will have to be custom milled. I would attach a 3/4 riser. The bullnose will be a 3/8x2 piece with a 3/4x3/4 piece glued to one edge and rounded over. I would get a perforated metal strip to attach in the rabbet that will extend under the tile and bed in the morter. This should keep a clean line at the tile and provide sufficient support to the bullnose. Here's a sketch up of my idea. Let me know what you think!
 

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