Grain orientation on drawer's bottom?

Messages
5,629
Location
Catalunya
Hi there.

Is there a fixed rule for the grain orientation on a drawer bottom? Should it be along the longest side or shortest side. Or it doesn't matter?

(See sketch.)
 

Attachments

  • calaix.jpg
    calaix.jpg
    42.9 KB · Views: 29
Hi Toni,

The general rule for solid wood drawer bottoms is that the grain run parallel to the drawer face so as to be able to expand and contract a bit at the back of the drawer without pushing the sides apart. On period furniture though, there are exceptions to this rule that seem to have survived.

If you're making plywood bottoms, it doesn't matter.

Happy drawermaking!
 
Thanks John, that's been a ligthning answer! Having a sleepless night?

And here I went off surfing other tabs!

Sleepless yes, but at work. I'm doing night shift this week, but it's been raining steadily for 24 hours so the telescope is closed and I'm left to my own devices with a nice T1 line. The weather system is supposed to clear out by sunday night - my last night - so I figure I better stay up so I don't get used to sleeping in the dark again!
 
That's taking things in positive, BTW I didn't know you were an astronomer!

Well, I'm more of an astronomical bus driver :rofl:, larger telescopes and radio telescopes in particular tend to have operators (like me) who configure the instrument and set up the observations for the astronomers, who mostly deal with designing the observing program and dealing with the resulting data.

Its a fairly easy job on the whole, and has a great schedule for a woodworker, as I work 7- 12 hour days and then get 7 days off.
 
Last edited:
As I recall, he runs the Coffee Shop. :rofl:

(I agree with his comments on the grain orientation.)

Hey, thats an important job up here.... We probably use more coffee than anything else :D - though lately I'm finding hot chocolate keeps me awake much better :thumb:
 
... though lately I'm finding hot chocolate keeps me awake much better :thumb:
About the only way I like coffee is if you add a package of hot cocoa mix, some cream, and about three packs of sugar to it. Not only does it mask the coffee flavor enough for me to drink it, after one cup I can go roto-till the parking lot down at the mall. With the engine turned off. :p

Man, did we hijack Toni's thread or what?
 
Man, did we hijack Toni's thread or what?

yep, thems the perils of being up waaaay to late, turns ya into a blatant hijacker :rofl:

I think I'm going to turn in, eyes are getting really scratchy, and its still raining. Probably gonna snow tomorrow and then we'll lose the microwave internet connection :eek:
 
Hey guys, you didn't hijack my thread, actually I'm having quite fun with both of you and your comments.:rofl:

I considered that John's answer was so exact that completed and closed it :thumb:unless somebody else would like to pop in with some other suggestion.
 
toni, johns initial answer is correct.....the back of the drawer is cut off not grooved so as to allow the bottom to slide in-n-out with expansion-n-contraction. the bottom is usually fastened to the back through a slot that will hold it tight up against the back but will still allow it to move.
 
...the bottom is usually fastened to the back through a slot that will hold it tight up against the back but will still allow it to move.

Hi Tod.

Thanks for your input as well, but I think I'm not understanding exactly what you mean.
Please have a look at the sketch included and let me know if is this what you mean.
 

Attachments

  • fons calaix.jpg
    fons calaix.jpg
    34.5 KB · Views: 17
To further illustrate Todd's description, imagine you've got a drawer box with grooves in all four sides to hold the plywood bottom in. If you want to make the bottom out of solid wood, imagine you cut the bottom narrower - right at the top of the groove - so that the drawer bottom can slide in from the back after the box is assembled. To keep it from sliding back out - if you don't make the groove too tight, like I always do :doh: - you make an oval hole through the bottom and screw it to the back of the drawer.

I'll post you a picture when I get back home, unless someone else beats me to it :D
 
Well, I'm more of an astronomical bus driver :rofl:, larger telescopes and radio telescopes in particular tend to have operators (like me) who configure the instrument and set up the observations for the astronomers, who mostly deal with designing the observing program and dealing with the resulting data.

Its a fairly easy job on the whole, and has a great schedule for a woodworker, as I work 7- 12 hour days and then get 7 days off.

Still sounds like a great gig. Maybe you could sneak a mini lathe and a portable DC in there . . . .
 
To further illustrate Todd's description, imagine you've got a drawer box with grooves in all four sides to hold the plywood bottom in. If you want to make the bottom out of solid wood, imagine you cut the bottom narrower - right at the top of the groove - so that the drawer bottom can slide in from the back after the box is assembled. To keep it from sliding back out - if you don't make the groove too tight, like I always do :doh: - you make an oval hole through the bottom and screw it to the back of the drawer.

I'll post you a picture when I get back home, unless someone else beats me to it :D

Hi John.

I think that now I've caught the idea, please have a look at the sketch and confirm me if this is what you mean.

Oh well, yes it is rather crude and disproportioned:huh: and yes! where are the dovetails??:huh: just in case someone wants to start a joke thread:D and yes, it is upsidedown:doh:.

Jokes apart, is it enough just one slot?. Is it that enough to prevent bottom sagging? and one more question, what would be the usual thickness of that bottom if made in solid wood?
 

Attachments

  • bottom.jpg
    bottom.jpg
    48.9 KB · Views: 15
Last edited:
Hi Toni,

That's just what I was trying to describe:thumb:. I usually make my drawer bottoms half an inch or so, that way its nice and rigid. If the drawer is wide, like more than 12" the bottom might need a bit of extra support that the screw/slot provides, but on small drawers its mostly to keep the bottom in the drawer. I usually use two screws on all but the narrowest drawers, but that's more aesthetic than anything else - I know, who looks at the bottom of a drawer anyway:doh:! On drawers wider than 18", I'd probably add more screws, though I don't really have any rhyme or reason to it, maybe one for every 6"?

I'll be home tomorrow night, I've got a couple good examples I can photograph.
 
Thanks John.

I look forward to see them.

I'm on the process of designing the details of my chest of drawers and this was something I was needing to make the measured drawings so I hope I will be able to start it soon, ( if I finish my chair which is taking me as much time as building it! I'm starting to be fed up of sanding)
 
Top