Idea for Shop Ceiling

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Pennsylvania
Want to run an idea by you guys for my shop ceiling. This probably isn't an original idea . I may have even read about it someplace. Don't remember. Anyway, it goes like this...

I need to finish my 24'x'36'x10' shop ceiling. I'm thinking drywall because of cost and paintability. I really don't look forward to mudding & taping though. How does this sound: Hang the drywall as usual and instead of mud & tape, take 1/2"x3" strips of poplar or mdf and cover the seams with that. I was thinking I could use finish nails to hang these strips but I wasn't sure if that would be strong enough. I was also thinking I might cut the drywall down to 4'x4' so I don't have to rent a lift. A benefit of this would be that I could remove the seam-covers and unscrew the drywall if I need to get up there for any reason.

One issue I see is with painting. Painting a bunch of 4'x4' squares is more difficult than just running a roller over the whole thing. I may do the painting before installation.

Does anyone see any other issues with this approach? Am I missing something here?
 
Rob, I do see a problem, (that is) if you are going to fasten the drywall only around the edges of the 4' x 4' squares. Due to the weight of the drywall, it will definitely sag over a period of time and with the screws only around the edges of the 4' x4' squares, the weight of the drywall will eventually let the screws pull through and it WILL come crashing down.:( If, however, you use the normal recommended screw pattern for the ceiling installation of drywall, you can easily mud over the screws, then the use of the strips over the seams as you described, would work satisfactorily and no tape or mud would be needed there.
 
Ok, this is a bit different, but .... when I built my garage 21 years ago, I used drywall on the walls and ceiling ... why? ... because that's what was done ... I never thought to do any different.

When I build my next (and final) garage, I'm going to use painted steel on the inner walls and ceiling. It's light weight which makes it easy to install, it needs no mudding, it needs no surface finishing (pre-painted) and it will not burn easily. Properly insulated wall cavities will keep it from transmitting (losing) heat.

About the only negative that I can think of is that drywall has some ability to slow fire down by insulating the wall framing material from the fire whereas steel would transmit the heat almost instantly and under serious heat will melt where drywall will not.

Building codes in your area may prohibit this approach.

cheers eh?
 
how `bout skipping drywall alltogether and putting white melimine on your ceiling? no painting required and if screw holes bother you color matched caps are available to cover screw heads.
 
I've seen some nice shop ceilings done in Fabral painted steel....considered doing mine in it, but I had free leftover o.s.b.
 
Rob, why not get a few estimates for doing the ceiling. Get a pro to do it. They will more then likely hang 12' sheets, meaning less seams to be taped. You can also pay them to tape the seems for you. Then you can paint it yourself. Use their backs for the heavy work, not yours. You might be surprised to find out that subbing the job out, it will get finished much quicker then you can do it yourself. You might also be surprised that the cost will not be much more then if you did it yourself. The cost of the Sheetrock and other suppiles will be about the same weather you buy it or the contractor buys it for you. You won't have to lift a thing except a pen to sign the check. I am getting ready to get my ceiling done. It is also 10' high but is only 24'x28'. I have an estimate of $850.00. This includes delivery, screws, tape, mud and a textured finish. I will paint it myself. Yes it will cost you more but your back will thank you. Don't forget to take in the cost of the slats, which if the pro does it you won't be needing them. For the size of your ceiling, that is a lot of lumber. The issue you had about painting the slats is no longer a concern. After it is Sheetrocked you can now have blown insulation put in.

Now, how are you going to heat that new workshop?

Do you have the rough in electrical for your ceiling lights yet? I wanted to Sheetrock my ceiling first, then do the electrical, but where I live the inspector said the electrical had to be done first so it could be inspected. Once it past the rough in inspection I could get the Sheetrock hung.
 
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Joe is right Rob, Get a pro in to hang the board. The costs should be lower than that if you want to tackle the mudding yourself. Use 5/8 Fire board for insurance reasons and just get it taped, then paint it yourself. I would avoid a textured ceiling as that stuff is just a dust collector in a shop. Get all the backing in for all your expected needs as well as the insulation Vapor narrier ( if required) and wiring. You would hate to rip out board to re-wire later.
 
I agree Rob, get a crew to do that one.
There will be plenty of other places to save a buck and you will sure be glad you did.

DT
 
according to joes prices the ceiling would cost you around 1200 and then you factor in how long it would take you to do and you can see your savings in dollars alone... my prefernce wouldnt be drywall but to each his own:rolleyes:
 
Hi Rob :wave:,
If you are precise in the cutting of the 4'x4' sheetrock or osb, once installed you can paint the entire ceiling with semi gloss, Chalk it out in exact 4' squares, cut 3 1/2" blocks 1" thick, exact length connecting pieces, kinda like tinker toys ( I think). Using spacers and planning you could make your ceiling look like it was a beamed ceiling. You could even add molding to give it the coffered look!:rolleyes:
Shaz :)
 
larry, is that osb that you have on your ceilings?

yup,, and when it was up i could stand in between the trusses on the ceilng and not fall threw:D try that with drywall... the paint cost me around $200 which did the finish room and the ceiling,, finsih room is 12x16 and all white like nancy's and the shop area is 32x36 the osb was at the time $8 for a 4x8 sheet. the only thing i would change is to get on it sooner so the sheets were all the same thickness no moisture on them pryor... and bump the joints flush.. but for a shop and bein a ceiling its just fine... and i can see in there just fine..
 
Rob is this shop attached to your home ( like a garage) or is it a free standing structure? Just throwing something out here and something you might want to think about and that is fire. Normal garages here are required to have a double 5/8th min drywall fire barrier between the home and garage. as it increases the escape time. We do this because we store our cars with very flamible materials inside them ( ie gas) You might want to check with your local building regs in your area and talk to your insurance provider. With most of us using our garages as shops we introduce lots of fine very flamible dust and extra burning materials into it. I have done lots of reno work on fire damaged buildings and it is amazing just how fast a fire can move.
 
Rob is this shop attached to your home ( like a garage) or is it a free standing structure? Just throwing something out here and something you might want to think about and that is fire. .....

Interesting timing there Drew. I have been watching this thread and just had similar thoughts. Then I see you had posted this. It is something to think about.
 
Ceiling

Bob, I have been faced with the same thing only in a basement ceiling with web trusses 24" OC, I really did not want to hand drywall incase one of the up stairs toilets or a pipe leaked. I was on a liveaboard dive cruise on a really nice yacht, Our state room had white bumpy surfaced panel applied directly to the wood ceiling and the seams were coverd by nice wood molding held up with SS Screws with SS Trim Washers.

I checked into the panels at Menards, they are available for approx $10-11.00 each. They are 1/8" fiberglass, and in the farm country here in Iowa, farmers use them to line milking parlors or hog barns, so that they can wash them down with water and soap for cleanliness.

Seems to be a soloution for my basement, as I can take one down if I need access to the systems running through the web trusses above the basement ceiling.

Just a thought.:wave:
 
Unless your really bothered about the looks, I'd just drywall it skip the mud and paint it.

This.


Really, you don't care about the minor structural strength that tape/mud add, and it is just a shop. Just paint it. My basement playroom is just like this. It was unfinished bare drywall when we moved in, and we just painted it, and it looks fine. It really isn't any more work to paint it without the mud on.

...art
 
Here is one more option, you could easily install a suspended ceiling. It's pretty easy to do and from the sounds of it you don't have a very big area. I do this stuff for a living, and cost wise 6 one way 1/2 dozen the other. Very close in price.

On another note, if you do drywall it I know you will need at least a 4" strip of wood to cover the tapered edges on the drywall, as each edge is tapered 2". If you do drywall it yourself, the lift would make life easy. You can hang 12' to 16' sheets very easily with a drywall lift. Good luck...

oh ya, No painting with a suspended ceiling....
 
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