which plane next ?

jim capozzi

Member
Messages
280
Location
oswego county , upstate n.y.
hi all

ok heres the question , which plane next ?

a little background ...... i already have all the regulars #2thru#7 some old collectors stuff and some rehabbed by me , and a new #2 from tom lie-neilsen and a shoulder plane from L-N also. an old #78 rabbet plane, and finally a 71 1/2 dado plane . i think thats all of them :huh:

ok so now that you now that, what say you for my next one for the collection ?

before anyone says #8 i really dont have an interest in that one , it wont do anything that my #7 wont do so why waste the money :dunno:........ i use my planes on a regular basis and spent alot of time learning how and fettling and sharpening. all that said , i want a user , not a showpiece.

so whadaya think ??
 
Jim,
I'd look into either an LN 60½ Rebbet plane, or a 140 skewed blade rabbet plane (with removeable side panel). Depending on your type of work, maybe a 98/99 pair.

Sargent also made a double bladed rabbet-cleaning plane that was pretty much the equivalent of the Stanley 98/99 pair. I don't recall the number right now, and I'm not anywhere near the shop so I can't go look it up.

An LN 97, or a Lee Valley #95 would also be handy, as would a bevel-up smoother, like the LN 62, or the LV. I have all of these, and use them fairly often.
 
Every time that I think that I should get some planes and learn how to use them I look at the price and say "Well, forget that". Why are they so expensive?

Because they have to be machined to very precise standards.

As to answer the original question, well I would go for the LN #140. It too is pricey but with the skewed blade and fence, it would be a very versatile plane to have in ones arsenal. At the same time, if you like doing stuff by hand instead of a machine, perhaps a LN Router Plane might be good for you.
 
....if you like doing stuff by hand instead of a machine, perhaps a LN Router Plane might be good for you.

Yeah, I sorta forgot about that one. It'd be a good addition, too. LV also has a new router plane, and old Stanley 71's, etc. are fairly easy to find, although most are missing blades, fences, or both.
 
Every time that I think that I should get some planes and learn how to use them I look at the price and say "Well, forget that". Why are they so expensive?

Allen do what us Bottom Feeders do. Buy an old used one that needs just a little TLC. Spend a couple of hours cleaning, flattening and sharpening. Then you have a plane that works just as good and costs MUCH less. I don't think I have more than $50 in any of mine. Now, they look old and tarnished but it's how they work that matters. And mine in my hands work just as good as any new one.

Jim C. Got any block planes? I didn't see you mention one and I couldn't work without a block plane. Thats one tool that I would like to have 3 or 4 sitting around sharpened and ready to go.
 
block-n-rabbit planes are my most used....then i use an old 113 quite a bit, probably as much as my jack.
 
hi all

"perhaps a LN Router Plane might be good for you"......

thank you travis , but i already have a stanley 71 1/2 router plane with two cutters in fine + shape. but i will look into the 140 you mentioned ..thanks !


"Jim C. Got any block planes? I didn't see you mention one and I couldn't work without a block plane. Thats one tool that I would like to have 3 or 4 sitting around sharpened and ready to go".

jeff i have a stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane that i have worn out almost. i guess that one is a lesson learned about buying quality and cry once ......i am on my way to buying another real soon :doh: my dad always said i would never learn !! :rofl: ok i learned dad :p

thanks to everyone for the replies i am still looking around and doing my homework to see what will be next . keep the replies coming !! thanks again :)
 
Not essential but . . .

I picked up my 289 just because I thought it looked like a good price. No fence or depth-stop ans a bit shabby. 'Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiilllllllllllllllllllllllllll the day I was think'n REALLY hard ( ouch ) about how to bring some up-rights down even with a front peice. Broblem was the up-right was cross-grain to the face. Then I remembered that old 289 I had'nt really introduced myself to yet. The skewed cutter goes cross-grain even, smooth and sweet. The 78 wanted to tear. The 78 is smooth for distance but that 289 saved the day ! It might sit on the shelf and get lonely for awhile but when you need it . . . " Hey, I got a tool for THAT ! ".
 
Awww ... you already have a router plane? I guess this proof-of-concept model wouldn't interest you then. :rolleyes:

A520_0948_MyRouterPlane.jpg
 
It's been a while since I made it, and that was the only picture I ever took of it. I can take more photos tonight, I suppose, but ...

... there's nothing to show, really. The sharpened Allen wrench cutter was inserted into a slightly too-small drilled hole, taking care to keep it facing forward. I used my vise for the insertion process. The depth can be adjusted with a hammer (or the vise or even a C-clamp, I guess) but it's in there tightly enough that it doesn't slop around in use.

Just an experiment.... :dunno:

EDIT: It occurs to me that there IS something to show on the bottom of the "blade". You don't want an exact 90* angle on the cutter if the main shaft is mounted vertically (like mine is). You need some clearance on the bottom so the cutting edge is the only part that contacts the surface being planed. It may be hard to see in the photo, but I ground a slight slope into the bottom of the cutter - removing the most material at the bend in the wrench.
 
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Awww ... you already have a router plane? I guess this proof-of-concept model wouldn't interest you then. :rolleyes:

A520_0948_MyRouterPlane.jpg

Pretty Neat, Kerry. I think that might merit the "NIKI" Award for tool innovation.:D

(With all the neat things he comes up with out of necessity, I kinda think we should create an "Innovation Award" here on the forum that could be awarded to folks who come up with things like this, and name it after Niki).:thumb:
 
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