Menu
What's new

Salt n Pepper Mill Set

Alex Reid

Alex Reid

Member
Messages
739
Location
Zushi, Japan
Here is a salt and pepper mill set I made for someone. I used the crush grind mechanism bought from Woodcraft. I like these mecahnisms as I think they are a little more ergonomic. I used maple and bubinga. Also for the picture I am using my new photo tent purchased at Costco. (Thanks to Stu for that recommendation)

Salt and Pepper Mills
mills.jpg
 
Hey Alex, those are really neat, love the form, very different from what we usually see :thumb:

The photo tent sure makes it easier to take nice pics eh? :D

Cheers!
 
Stuart Ablett said:
The photo tent sure makes it easier to take nice pics eh? :D

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. Stu, your'e not kidding easier. You'd never know it but there is a heap of stuff scattered all around the tent :D.

This is my first time to make these with the crush grind so I'd be interested in knowing if anyone else has used them and if so what is your method for cutting the 5mm instep groove to accomodate the spring clip on the mechanism? For this I made a scraping tool but I am interested in what you did.
 
That's a great-looking set, Alex. They look very comfortable in the hand. I've not turned any mills yet, so I'm no help on your question. (I think for my first mills, I'm going to use the kind with the threaded knob on the top, since it looks like they'd be easier to drill...fewer steps in the profile.)
 
Alex - nice photo! Very crisp focus and colorful!

I like your mills! Good color combinations and the form has a modern style to it which looks like it would be comfortable to use! Nice work!
 
Alex those look great. You know I got to thinking and those could double as fish bonkers too. A great thing to add to the fishin box. Bonk em and prep em for dinner all with the same tool. :rofl::rofl:

The presentation is great Alex, did you try different back drop colors with it? What type of lighting are you using with the tent? did you have to use any filters with it? How about a pic of the tent too?
 
Drew Watson said:
Alex those look great. You know I got to thinking and those could double as fish bonkers too. A great thing to add to the fishin box. Bonk em and prep em for dinner all with the same tool. :rofl::rofl:

The presentation is great Alex, did you try different back drop colors with it? What type of lighting are you using with the tent? did you have to use any filters with it? How about a pic of the tent too?
Click to expand...

We never salt our fish. This is Japan, we use soy sauce (and a little lemon and daikon oroshi (grated radish)). :D

For the photo tent I usually try to take my pictures in natural light. Also I never use a flash so I almost always have to take pics during the day. Our place has excellent light so I don't have any problems. Will send you a picture of the photo tent.
 
Here's a photo of the photo tent I bought. This was purchased at Costco but I'm sure you can find one similar at your local camera store or big box hardware outlet, etc. The size of this one is 750×750×650mm. It is an umbrella type that you open by pulling a string from the top and sliding the center axis down. A real lifesaver this one.

phototent.jpg
 
Alex,
Great job.. love the shape and wood combo... I copied the photo... can I use it as a go by sometime in the future.. ??

I use the crush grind almost exclusively... I'm working on a couple of standards that I've had for about a year.. not sure how they're going to tun out.. after they're done I don't plan to ever buy another standard.
 
Alex Reid said:
...I'd be interested in knowing if anyone else has used them and if so what is your method for cutting the 5mm instep groove to accomodate the spring clip on the mechanism? For this I made a scraping tool but I am interested in what you did.
Click to expand...

As am I. As Alex said the instructions call for an internal rebate to snap the tabs into. Do any of you pepper grinders makers turn this or just cut off the tabs and glue?



I am making reference to the Crush Grind Wood which is a one-piece unit.
paste3.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Rebate.bmp
    147 KB · Views: 7
Last edited:
Alex Reid said:
Thanks guys. Stu, your'e not kidding easier. You'd never know it but there is a heap of stuff scattered all around the tent :D.

This is my first time to make these with the crush grind so I'd be interested in knowing if anyone else has used them and if so what is your method for cutting the 5mm instep groove to accomodate the spring clip on the mechanism? For this I made a scraping tool but I am interested in what you did.
Click to expand...

Alex,
I use the crush/grind all the time...I prefer them to the standard because they allow for more variables in design.

I was about to ask what you meant about the sprint clip on the mechanism... but I just realized what you asked.
I don't use the instep for my mills... I think I have a tool that will allow me to, but mostly I epoxy the mechanism into the base and the spring clip into the top to catch the shaft and turn the mechanism. The tool I have is used in hand chasing threads.. it is used to cut the stop at the back of the inside thread... essentially it is a side scraper that is only about 3/8" wide and cuts a flat groove at the back of the threads to stop the chasing tool.

You can see some of my mills on my web site.
 
Frank Townend said:
As am I. As Alex said the instructions call for an internal rebate to snap the tabs into. Do any of you pepper grinders makers turn this or just cut off the tabs and glue?

I am making reference to the Crush Grind Wood which is a one-piece unit.
paste3.jpg
Click to expand...

Frank,
I don't cut the tabs off, just epoxy them in place... on the shaftless units as in you picture, even if you engineer in a groove, unless you have some way to hold the tab, these tend to slip when in use.. to solve that I saw a tutorial from another turner that uses a little brass rod offset slightly to angle through the little fingers to hold and keep the unit from slipping and turning.
 
Thank you Chuck. I picked one up at WoodCraft the other day and will try it this weekend. If I understand you correctly I should glue both the bottom and top sections of the grinder body to their respective parts of the mill and use a "cap" to fill the mill. I like the idea of a small brass rod but, without seeing it 'in action' I'm not sure if I can reproduce it myself. Your mills on your site are very nice also. Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • Peppermill.jpg
    Peppermill.jpg
    46.2 KB · Views: 21
Last edited:
Frank Townend said:
Thank you Chuck. I picked one up at WoodCraft the other day and will try it this weekend. If I understand you correctly I should glue both the bottom and top sections of the grinder body to their respective parts of the mill and use a "cap" to fill the mill. I like the idea of a small brass rod but, without seeing it 'in action' I'm not sure if I can reproduce it myself. Your mills on your site are very nice also. Thank you.
Click to expand...

Frank,
If you're doing the shaftless kit, don't glue the top part to the grinder body.. that has to turn to work the grinder. That's where the little brass rod goes.. I usually do a tenon on the top part of the mill that fits down into the bottom of the mill. I put the little rod in the tenon... it goes through the prongs on the mill grinder.. since there are three prongs, you have to off set the rod so it just hangs one of the prongs. I use a 1/8 brass rod that I got at Lowe's. I think I have one I can make some pictures of and show you, but will have to wait till tomorrow, it's too dark and cold to go wandering out to the shop tonight.

Meantime, I downloaded your picture of the mill works and inserted a couple of lines to show where the brass bar would normally go.
 

Attachments

  • paste3.jpg
    paste3.jpg
    64.4 KB · Views: 7
  • Peppermill.jpg
    Peppermill.jpg
    61.6 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:
This is great Chuck, thank you. I really appreciate your taking the time to explain verbally and graphically.

When I discussed "gluing" the top part of the mechanism, I was taking into account it needed to rotate, so I was thinking the following:
  1. After turning all three sections of the mill (Cap, Top, and Bottom),
  2. Glue the bottom part of the mechanism up in to the bottom section of the mill,
  3. Holding the bottom section of the mill (with the top of the mechanism 'sticking through') glue it into the middle section of the mill (being careful not to get glue in the 'rotating' part of the mechanism).
The method I describe requires a cap for filling as the middle and lower parts of the mill would not be able to be separated.

I do look forward to seeing the cutting of a tenon to hold a pin. I do understand the need to offset it, due to the placement of the pins on the upper part of the mechanism.
 
Frank Townend said:
This is great Chuck, thank you. I really appreciate your taking the time to explain verbally and graphically.

When I discussed "gluing" the top part of the mechanism, I was taking into account it needed to rotate, so I was thinking the following:
  1. After turning all three sections of the mill (Cap, Top, and Bottom),
  2. Glue the bottom part of the mechanism up in to the bottom section of the mill,
  3. Holding the bottom section of the mill (with the top of the mechanism 'sticking through') glue it into the middle section of the mill (being careful not to get glue in the 'rotating' part of the mechanism).
The method I describe requires a cap for filling as the middle and lower parts of the mill would not be able to be separated.

I do look forward to seeing the cutting of a tenon to hold a pin. I do understand the need to offset it, due to the placement of the pins on the upper part of the mechanism.
Click to expand...

I know the style you mean.. I have a beautiful cherry wood - 3 piece mill that I wasn't so neat with the glue... the only way it will work right now is you have to grasp it firmly, smash the peppercorns on the table, then rake them off the table into your plate. :rofl:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top