Sharpening Demystified....the video....

Spot on with that PDF file Stuart, I have always used a fixed jig with my home made sharpening system, but may even change it for a movable leg tool holder now. Also like the sizing gauges for the distance from the wheel, why is it we can't all think of these simple solutions :huh::dunno:

Many thanks to Kirk for sharing his article.
 
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Stu,

How did you make the tool holder jig (for lack of better terms)? At first glance, and second for that matter, I thought it was store bought. Do you have any plans or drawings you could post? Cool setup. I love the repeatability.

Regards from TX,
 
HI Lee

I just had a good look at several units on the market, and made mine, no plans at all.

It is important to get the length of the arm right and the pivot points right, I just used the dimensions of existing tool jigs to guide me.

Cheers!
 
Stu,

I recently bought the Wolverine system and I could use someone pointing me in the correct direction. I've got a 3/8" bowl gouge that I attempted to sharpen using the vari-grind attachment last night. I got most of it looking like it should but I seem to have trouble with the tops of the wings. They always seem to kinda go up in a radius and then back down to the top edge of the tool. I'm sure I'm missing something. I've watched your video, downloaded the written instructions, and watched the OneWay video multiple times. After watching the OneWay video, I layed the tool on it's side and ground both wings down so it was fairly level from the nose back to the tool body. I then put it back into the vari-grind and sharpened until the flat areas on the top were gone. Somehow the curviture of the wing had come back. HELP!

Thanks,
 
Thanks to all for a very interesting discussion. I've read the article, watched Stu's video, and it all seems straightforward, but I cannot make the geometry come out right.

Critical dimensions appear to be the 2" "stickout" of the gouge, the 6" distance between the top of the pocket arm and the centerline of the grinder wheel, and the 23 degree angle of the leg. And logically, the wider the setup jig the larger the angle and vice versa.

I've been playing around with various measurements in Sketch-Up (I don't want to dust off my weak trigonometry, if possible), and the dimensions for the jig in the article do not appear correct. Also, it appears that in Stu's video the bevel of the gouge hits the wheel above the centerline.

Does anyone have any further insight about this?

Thanks,

Ken
 
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