Leaking Pen

Brad Hungler

In Memoriam
Messages
117
Location
Independence Ky
I decided to check out this pen making that seems to popular and fun. So I go to my not so local, (not sure I can say the name) pen/blank/kits/rock store. Spend $325.00 on all the cool pen blanks and polishing stuff and 7mm pen kits.
I make 3 nice pens to show off at the family Easter gathering thinking I would get some feedback as to who I should consider making one as a gift. Well of course I put them in my shirt pocket ($75.00 shirt) Sorry I did not have a pocket protector. Of coarse 1 leaks leaving a nice black ink blob on my shirt (now a shop rag). I did not get the response I was hoping for because who wants a pen that leaks? They look nice but they LEAK.
Unbelievable, that I went to this store thinking they only sell the best product on the market.
I contacted the manager at the store and told him of my shall we say my (unfortunate experience). He is going to refund me for the kits I bought and see what he can do to make my unfortunate experience better.
I am hoping that he will make me an offer equal to the $75 shirt.

Has this leaking ink thing happened to anyone else? The manager told me he has had similar problems with the 8mm pen kits.
I will update the offer made by manager when I recieve it.
 
What kind of kits were they? No pen should leak. Glad he took them back. Advice to purchase from a reputable supplier, like CS is good. Several of us here do pens. Ask for help anytime.
 
Thanks Pete, I will check them out.
Frank, I got my kits at Rockler so I thought they would be high quality. They are 7mm pen kits stock #61263 streamline ball point. They are $3.69 for one, but I bought 10 to try them out.
I'm hoping I just got 1 bad one and it was just bad luck?:doh:
 
Brad, I haven't had any leakage problems with any of the pen kits I've used, including those from Rockler. I'm guessing yours was a rare exception. Just so you know though, the Rocker pen kits are really not all that high of quality. Servicable, but there are better kits available. Also keep in mind that the 7mm slimline kits (regardless of brand) are generally the lowest-quality kits a manufacturer offers.
 
Hello Vaughn,
I dont know anything about the quality of pens available out there. I kinda got what was least expensive to get started until I improve my skill level.
Thanks for your info.
It's funny, when I first loggod on and said I had got a lathe everyone said "open wallet and take a picture of money" I didnt think to take it literlly. WOW by the time I get a few gagets and what-nots my lathe turned out to be the cheap part of this hobby.
After I practice a bit on these pens I will buy a higher quality. I just need to research the best places to get them.
Does anyone prefer wood or acrylic, or both?
I have a deer antler I'm trying to work into a pen, drilling it out is like being at the dentist. (drillind thru bone)
Thanks for the advise.
 
Thanks Scott,
That is a much better price than what I paid (about $7.50) per pen x 10,so it looks like I've pretty much blown $75 . Oh yeah plus $75 for the shirt. Man this is killen me.

Not to mention the 90 mile round trip in a Ford Expedition at maybe 20 mi. per gallon. OUCH
$200 lesson the hard way.:doh:
 
extra tubes

Buy a few extra brass tubes when you buy a better kit.

Glue it up, turn it and if you do not like it - toss it. You are then out $0.50 for the tube set plus the blank.
 
Hello Vaughn,
I dont know anything about the quality of pens available out there. I kinda got what was least expensive to get started until I improve my skill level.
Thanks for your info.
It's funny, when I first loggod on and said I had got a lathe everyone said "open wallet and take a picture of money" I didnt think to take it literlly. WOW by the time I get a few gagets and what-nots my lathe turned out to be the cheap part of this hobby.
After I practice a bit on these pens I will buy a higher quality. I just need to research the best places to get them.
Does anyone prefer wood or acrylic, or both?
I have a deer antler I'm trying to work into a pen, drilling it out is like being at the dentist. (drillind thru bone)
Thanks for the advise.
Brad, you did fine with the Rockler kits. Slimlines (regardless of brand) are a good way to start out. We've all had similar lessons at one point or another. Pete's advice about getting some extra tubes is spot on, too. It becomes more important as you start turning more expensive kits.

Regarding wood vs. acrylic...I'd say I've turned about 50-50 of each. I like the acrylics because they are faster to finish - no finish per se, just wet sand to 400 or 600 grit, then buff with tripoli then white diamond. Of course, that requires yet another tool...a buffer with various buffing wheels. :rolleyes:
 
Forgot to answer the wood vs. acrylic question. I turn because I like wood, what I can do with it, and what it tells me needs done. I have tried a few acrylics and always ended up with just a pen. If I was making a living from selling pens it would probably be different. Also the fact I look as cutoffs from bowl and plate blanks as free wood.
 
Pen leaking update

I got an e-mail from Rockler manager John LaGrange apoligizing for my leaking pen and am happy to report that he is going to credit me for ALL my pen kits I purchased and send me a $50 gift certificate for my trouble.
Just to mention; I did speak on the phone with John and he was a nice guy and professional not one of those jerks you get that act like your waisting thier time.
Another Happy Costumer:)
 
Hey Brad - I didn't read ALL the replys, but, if you don't leave enough space between the refill tip and the end of the brass tip: (hidden enough inside) it can wick out. The rule of thumb is about a 32th of the flat part of the refill showing, when open. This will keep the tip far enough back so that the wicking doesn't happen.

Bruce
 
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