Okay, now to answer your other question about heat and BTU's. Unfortunately you are way off on this one too. Wood heat has a lot of btus, but calculating heat output is kind of hard. A lot of heat goes up the chimney in order to get the thing to draft. At the same time a lot of heat is used up in steam in the drying process right before it burns, and of course not all of it burns.
A hard and fast rule where I live is that a cord of wood is roughly equivalent to 100 gallons of oil. If someone puts in a new woodstove and wants to know how many cord they need to heat their house, just figure out the gallons and subtract from that. If the guy uses 800 gallons of oil, then he would need 8 cords of firewood.
This winter the price of wood hit 250 dollars a cord. With oil at 3.20 cents a gallon (at the time), wood heat was almost as expensive as oil heat. Add in the cost of added house insurance, the nuisance factor (loading a woodstove several times a day), and the need for firewood storage, and oil looks pretty good money wise. Its one thing to have a lot of btus, but if you cannot meter them out in a controlled way, it does little good.
Firewood is also hard to calculate because you have other factors. The rate of burn is harder to control. Sometimes I had to open the windows in my house when I burned wood because the heat was so high. Those are really wasted btus because its more than the house can stand. At night though, sometimes the propane furnace would kick on because the fire died down too much.
I have done the calculations many times on my house, and even though I have "free" wood, it just does not make sense for me to burn wood at this time. I currently use propane, which is vastly more efficient then oil per btu for several reasons, but that is a whole other thread onto its own.
PS: Don't get me started on outside woodstoves, to say I am not a fan is an understatement.