Delta 14-207 Drillpress

Hi All,

I hope this is an appropriate question. I have my father's Delta 14-207 floor model drillpress. I am planning on a new larger unit. How can I find out the approximate price I should try to sell this for? The old tool web site that Glenn told me about has been down for several weeks so I am not getting help from there.

It is in good condition, works like a charm, no play in the quill.

Any information will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance and Enjoy,

Jim

Location: North San Diego County if that makes any difference.
 
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Keep in mind that this is coming from someone who hasn't quite graduated from being a tool collector into being a woodworker, but one of my friends kept his smaller DP after and upgrade, put the mortise attachment on and uses it as a dedicated mortiser.

Would the current Delta mortise attachment work on the drill in question?
 
How old are we talking? Some of the older models (1940's to maybe 60's) will bring good money. Especially a floor model. Now if we're talking 1980's old that is a different story. But the rule of thumb is 50% of new and add or subtract for condition. I have to ask, why do you want to sell it?

If it is a really old one, you would be foolish to sell it to buy a new one. I went from a newish (1980's)Delta to two 40's or 50's model Craftsman drill presses and you couldn't swap me 10 news one for one of these. There was not no comparison in the two.

Oh yea, www.owwm.com is back up now. But they/we don't do estimates. So it'd not going to help you much on price. Best bet it put it on EBay and let them tell you what it is worth.
 
Oh heck. If that is the same drill press (that Greg linked too) you would be foolish to replace it with an imported Drill Press. I looked at the exploded diagram but didn't recognize it. That one is at least twice the quality of most new ones!!!
 
Ya hear that dad? So if you want to get a new one, you should pass this one down to your son just like your dear old dad did to you ;-)
 
Ya hear that dad? So if you want to get a new one, you should pass this one down to your son just like your dear old dad did to you ;-)
On the other hand, a REAL son would be buying his dad a new Steel City 17", so Dad would have a reason to pass down the old one. :p

Jim, I'll echo the others...sounds like that drill press would be better off kept than sold. ;)
 
On the other hand, a REAL son would be buying his dad a new Steel City 17", so Dad would have a reason to pass down the old one. :p

Jim, I'll echo the others...sounds like that drill press would be better off kept than sold. ;)

Vaughn You Are My Guy. A Steel City 17" would be a nice thing and Glenn has a much larger shop than mine so he could absorb the Delta.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
Hi Mark,

This is NO little drillpress. It is a floor model and weighs a "ton." Shop just isn't large enough for two drillpresses (three car garage that, sometimes, houses one car at night, and, all of the time, houses washer, dryer, freezer, FAU)

I am posting photos in a few minutes.

Thanks and Enjoy,

Jim
 
Hi All,

I cannot seem to get my replies to attach to the right message so here is one to all of you who responded.

The booklet and instructions that came with the DP say printed in 1937. I am not sure, however I think my dad purchased it somewhere around the time I went into the Navy/Marines 1n 1943.

I removed the moving parts some time ago to be sure that everything was OK. It was. There was no rust. Lubricants were in acceptable condition. I re-lubed as per replies from SMC members. All parts are tight, no slop, bright and shiny clean.

Due to small parents, problems in WWII, undiagnosed health problem, I weigh a magnificent 110 # dry (not even wringing wet). I put blocks on the DP table to adjust the height. I do this because it lowers easily, but this "hunk" cannot get it to go up without a lot of grunting and sweating. I really want an elevating table.

As an aside: Putting blocks on the DP table brought back a flash memory. When I was learning to fly (1941) we had to tape blocks on the rudder pedals so I could reach them.

I am enclosing photos. The dark stuff on the column is not rust. It appears to be some kind of stain. I have not attempted to clean it. If I still have it after my workbench and Myrna's laundry cabinets are finished, I will try to clean it. I made sure the works were healthy and figured cosmetics could come later.
 
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Hi Again,

That cannot be the right purchase date. You could not buy anything like this in 1943...Heck you couldn't even buy toothpaste without turning in an empty tube or buy a phonograph record without turning in an old one, etc.

Therefore I think he purchased it prior to our entry into WWII in December, 1941. The serial number should date it; it dates most equipment.

Serial Number 100-3037

Enjoy,

Jim
 
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Hi Carol,

Yes I hang some laundry in the ga shop. If a shirt gets something on it; it gets rinsed and hung in the shop. Every morning after my shower my towel and washcloth get hung in the shop. That kind'a give you the idea.

We run a fairly equal household. Things like: you see a problem, you fix it. Sometimes I help with meals (almost always get my own breakfast). Almost always carry my dishes and some serving dishes from the dining room to the kitchen after meals. Myrna is almost as apt to wash a car as I am. Myrna does the sewing however because I'm a klutz at it (oh, I do sew on an occasional button). When younger Myrna did about half the dry wall in a house we bought and rented to the kids for appartment rates. She can paint (walls as well as sea scapes) and sort'a use a hammer.

WE always make the beds; it is so much easier with two. We both take care of our cars and whoever is washing cars usually does both. We consider ourselves a team. It will be Hell if she dies before I do. We have had one major argument in our 60 years. We both had the flu and high temps. The next day we couldn't remember what we were arguing about.

She keeps me from spending too much money (tools, etc. you know). I keep her from trying to keep things too long, or "make-do."

I am blabbering way too much. So I say to you, Enjoy,

Jim

If I go back and read this I will censor the heck out of it so I am going to send it as is.
 
To answer your question, that is a desirable drill press. I wouldn't be surprised if it brought $200 or more. Can't say without seeing it. But that is great DP. I am always surprised at how much they bring, but I don't see that many for sale either.

To replace that with a new one would be a shame. But it's yours and I am not telling you what to do. To buy a new one of the same quality level as that one your going to have to look at REAL industrial models. Not something you find in a woodworking catalog. And it won't be cheap either.

You may find a new one that works for you and drill holes just fine, But it won't be the same quality as that one. Theres more cast iron in that one that than three new ones! Again, you didn't ask but I see no advantage on buying a new one to replace that one.

I replaced my old delta with two Sears (King Seeley) models and there is not comparison in two. I was trying to drill some big holes with a forstner bit for a mortise. The quillt would flex and it would not drill the holes in a straight line. I had these two sitting around and decided to try one of them. Twice as rigid even it it's unrestored state. I promptly restored one of them and have been using the other as is. Sold that Delta as fast as I could.

Good luck on what ever you decide.

after1.jpg
 
Hi Jeff,

I have only one complaint (well one and a half) with the Delta. The half is that I would like a keyless chuck. However, on the positive side the 1/2" chuck that is on it works smooth as glass.

The complaint is that I really have to work to raise the table. It goes down easily, however my little body does not get it up so well. Therefore instead of changing table height as I would like, I pile on layers of wood. This does not present the most accurate or stable work platform and is a real pain with clamps, etc.

Do you know anything about the "Easy Riser" Drill Press Conversion Kit?

Part of my problem is that I have equipment on both sides of the drill press so I try to raise it from the front. I'm sure it would be easier if I went around back where I have better balance of weight for lifting. I will give it a try.

Thanks for your concern and responses.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
Jim, you might try what I have done to several drill presses in the past that didn't have cranks to lift the table, and they worked great, (even on some large DP's with REALLY heavy tables.

Make a clamping strap from a 1" wide strip of 1/8" thick steel that will go around the column and place it around the column at the top just below the powerhead. (You MIGHT even find one that would work in the Fence section of the Big Box stores, that are used to fasten chain link Gates to their gate posts). Mount it so the bolt will be at the back of the column of the drill press and fasten a pully to the bolt that pulls the clamp togetherNext, get a small cable (or even a rope) and connect one end with a hook that will connect to the table's clamping bolt that is at the back of the column , (or sometimes you can just hook the "Hook" under the back edge of the table), whichever works best, and then run it through the pully and attach some weights to the other end of it. The weights should be close to the same weight (or slightly heavier) than weight of the the drill press table. We used to use old window weights, but you probably can't find many of them now but you probably could find some weight lifters weights (that someone's mom has discarded OR wants to get rid of).:rofl::rofl: The cable/rope length should be adjusted so that the weights just touch the floor when the table is all the way up to the highest setting you will use. The more compact (shorter height of the weights) the more table travel you will be able to get without the weights either touching the floor or the pully on the other end of travel. With this installation, it takes very little effort to raise or lower the table.
Note: If you want to get the maximum "Travel" of the DP's table without the weights either hitting the floor or the pully, you will have to mount two pullys at the top of the column and one pully connected to the weights to keep the weights from running into the top pully or hitting the floor. Note: (if you use the two pullys at the top method, you will have to add more weights though)

Heck, if you put one of these on it, you may not even want to get a new drill press, and you MIGHT even get some help from Glenn, (if he thinks he might inherit it someday).

I don't know if you could find an after market keyless chuck that would fit your drill press or not, but that MIGHT be an option as well.

Hope this helps and Good Luck.
 
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Thats exactly the kind of drill press I was looking for before I gave up and bought new. I bought a Steel City and I'm happy with it. But I would have been happier with one of those. I would hang on to it if I were you, especially since you have the opportunity to pass it on to a 3rd generation.

IIRC those were sold with different spindles so the first step in determining if you could put a new chuck on it would be to determine which spindle you have.
 
Hi Jeff,

I have only one complaint (well one and a half) with the Delta. The half is that I would like a keyless chuck. However, on the positive side the 1/2" chuck that is on it works smooth as glass.

The complaint is that I really have to work to raise the table. It goes down easily, however my little body does not get it up so well. Therefore instead of changing table height as I would like, I pile on layers of wood. This does not present the most accurate or stable work platform and is a real pain with clamps, etc.

Do you know anything about the "Easy Riser" Drill Press Conversion Kit?

Part of my problem is that I have equipment on both sides of the drill press so I try to raise it from the front. I'm sure it would be easier if I went around back where I have better balance of weight for lifting. I will give it a try.

Thanks for your concern and responses.

Enjoy,

Jim
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Maybe I'm missing something on keyless chucks.:dunno: When push comes to shove I've never seen one that didn't slip. I'm sure there are different quality chucks but would someone please give away their secret.
 
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Maybe I'm missing something on keyless chucks.:dunno: When push comes to shove I've never seen one that didn't slip. I'm sure there are different quality chucks but would someone please give away their secret.

Potential thread-jack :D.

I have keyless on my Makita and my DeWalt. Neither slip but they are both the "ring(?)" design where you hold the "ring" part of the collar and tighten the "tip". Once the right amount of torque is applied there is a little "thunk" as if a détente is engaging.

I spin 3/8" shaft bits frequently and have no problem unless I try the 'hold the chuck, run the drill' method of tightening when I get hurried. This is not true with C-man, Ryobi or no-name drill motors I have used. They generally slip if worked hard, no matter what.

Jacobs has a new line of after market keyless chucks that some folks are excited about as it brings this quality to some tools that didn't offer it. They refer to the détente feature as "Hammerlock" and it is achieved one handed through some design of their own. I don't know if the DP chucks work one of these ways but, I would hope so.
 
That "easy riser" kit sure looks like the ticket. Last weekend i just installed a raising mechanism for my mid 1930's Walker Turner drill press. I had the same issue with raising the table (and i'm younger than 40 (by a little), 6'-1" tall, and 200 lbs - not exactly fly weight) and i really wanted a better way to raise the table, especially since i want to put a larger woodworking type of auxiliary table on top of the stock table. I found some of the parts for an old production type model where you raise and lower the power head - the base table is the work table. I bought a longer acme threaded rod, and asked my dad (retired machinist) to fabricate a couple of small parts for me. I put it on last weekend, and it works great. At the same time, i also switched the table with an old Atlas table because the stock Walker Turner table wouldn't tilt. I had salvaged the Atlas from the roadside, cleaned it up, and installed it. Everything works just fine now.

I looked for a way to modify my older drill press because i knew it would be difficult to replace the quality with something i could afford, all in the name of getting a table raising mechanism.

My machinist Dad has a newer (1980's) import drill press that he's done considerable work to in order to make it run true. He looked my 1930's drill press over and declared it good to go with some minor clean up and lubrication. It's got better bones than the new stuff - higher quality materials and much better machining. It may lack some bells and whistles, but we've been able to address that.

If i had known about the "easy riser" kit, i probably would have gone that route rather than doing what i did. It looks like a simpler, cleaner solution. If you add weight such as cross slides, rotating tables, V-blocks, or machinist vises, you may want to make sure the counter balance weight is a bit on the high end in order to compensate for the added weight on the table.

Have fun with it -
Paul Hubbman
 
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