Word of Caution

Bill Simpson

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Word of caution, Well, First consider that often I do some stupid thigs but someone might avoid a feeling of stupidity should the heed my caution.

I built a Computer work station and coated it with several coats of Polyurethane and was pleased with the results, been about a year now. Back to the story. I was wrapping a package and had not any package tape but did have a roll of Duck tape... I tore off a strip and just toughed it to my desktop to hold it till I get the item ready and I could recover and secure with the tape (I know you have done so with Scotch tape and others) Well, when I lifted the tape I saw a patch of the finish had disappeared, Carefully I looked and there it was on the back of the tape (sticky side) and in the shape of my fingertip where I placed it.

Never had this happen before, am sure I did all the requirements for adhereing finish and after a year I am sure it was dry but that adhesive was strong enough to blister and lift the top surface.

Be advised and heed this warning, should you be stupid enough to follow my lead... Duck Tape is some nasty stuff.
 
I think it's one of those Murphy things, but considering how well that stuff stuck to that finish, you gotta wonder about the times the same stuff just won't stick to something you want it to stick to. :huh:
 
Was it water based poly? I've had that happen with it. I had used a 400 grit between coats and they apparently didn't bond. Was told later that I should have sanded with no more than 220.
 
No, oil based Poly, 300 paper between coats. Not a big splotch but a splotch just the same. I wiped over a pass with some wipe-on poly and I swear I can't find it. Oh! there it is, well anyway, nobody else will see it (I know where it is) I do love Wipe-on poly for this very reason, beside a great finish it is also a great un-screw-up-er. :D
 
Word of caution

Hello Bill,
If you like the wipe on poly you'll love Minwax Tung Oil. For I have used it for years and it does a fantastic job. I usually wipe on 5 or 7 coats in the following manner. After the stain has dried for a good 24 hours I rub on the first coat of Tung Oil which, I might add it nothing more than varnish cut 50/50 with 1 % of real tung oil in it so they can advertise it as tung oil. Allow the first coat to dry for 24 hours and then lightly sand it with #0 3-M imitation steel wool and vacuum the piece and apply the second coat of tung oil and allow it to dry for 12 hours or over night and then sand with 3-M #000 imitation steel wool and apply the third coat. No mor sanding is needed and when the third coat is dry to the touch you apply the forth coat and when it is also dry to the touch, apply the fifth coat. I use old work socks slipped on like a mitten and use it to apply my finish. When you are ready for the next coat just cut off the toe above the tung oil that was let on the sock and turn it wrong side out and staple it together. Then return it to the out side showing and again slip it on like a mitten and apply th next coat.

You can in most cases do the entire piece with that one sock.

After the final coat has dried apply one or two coats of Johson's Paste wax for wood and your done. Leaving a finih that will not accept finger print smudges or water rings.

I am inserting a sample of my refurbishing in the manner I spoke of;

Respectfully,
 

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