scared of drawers

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Central (upstate) NY
I'm going to add some drawers to the reloading bench this summer. Partly to help me organize stuff and partly to learn how to use that PC dovetail jig that's been sitting on the shelf awhile now. I don't want to get into how long exactly, but it does predate Ned's shop. :) I've never made a drawer at all, jig or no jig.

I'm thinking to make them out of plywood for the invisible parts (sides, bottoms, backs) and maybe some soft maple for the fronts (I have a little maple on hand). Right now, the only router I have is a PC8529 plunge, 2.25 hp that mostly lives in the table. I would like to get a fixed base router, especially for the dovetail jig, but I don't know if it is in the budget. If I can squeeze one out, how important is variable speed for a fixed base unit that is a 2nd router? Would one of those Hitachi 2.25 fixed base units do well? Or would it be easier somehow to use a PC router with the PC jig?

Next, what should I be reading and thinking about as I contemplate drawers? I feel like the biggest newbie here as far as actually using my tools.

Thanks!
 
I'd think a fixed-base PC 690 would work fine as a dedicated dovetail router. That's what I've used. Keep in mind this is from a guy who has only used his Rockler dovetail jig long enough to try it out on some scrap wood...I've not made any drawers, either.
 
I have a PC router that works perfect with my PC dove tail jig. I have found that the PC collars for the base don't fit just any router. I have never tried dovetailing plywood. I would think it would blow out in all the wrong places.
 
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Hi Mark:wave:,
About being scared of your drawers.:huh: Don't be!

If they don't fit try a different brand name. I like Fruit of the Loom but Hanes has some that are not so scary. You just have to do what it takes to get started! Good luck with those scary drawers! :D:rofl: I believe in you!
Shaz :)
 
mark, just check the PC guide bushings to see which brands they adapt with. To find this out you may have to check the kit that has the multiple sizes of bushings. i think they list it on the back.

Amazon has run some great deals on fixed base 690's recently, and most people say that router is bulletproof. i know i like mine. i've had no problem except the cracked housing caused by getting my foot wrapped around the cord and draggin it to the concrete.

plywood will do fine with the jig as long as you provide a backer board for blow out. make sure to try it out on some test pieces.

good luck

chris
 
Mark the answers above are good, but to be specific about the question you asked, ANY BRAND of router that states that it will accept the PC (or sometimes noted as "PC style") guide bushings will work fine with the PC Dovetail jig. If the small bits like the ones you will use with the dovetail jig are all you are going to use with that router, a variable speed is not necessary. With those statements in mind, I have some older routers that are fixed speed, but when I buy now, I usually buy the VS models, just to give me more flexibility should I feel the need for it.

On a further note, there was a period a year or so ago that there were quite a few posts on different forums complaining about bearing failures on the (new, at that time) PC 690 routers, and several comments from long time users of the 690 series that indicated that they didn't feel the new ones were built as well as the older ones. Does anyone know if Porter Cable has taken care of that problem? I don't remember seeing any complaints recently, so maybe that problem has gone away, I just don't know.:dunno:

A router with a D handle OR an offset base would assist in keeping the router flat on the jig though.

Have fun with the Jig and making drawers.
 
I'm going to add some drawers to the reloading bench this summer. Partly to help me organize stuff and partly to learn how to use that PC dovetail jig that's been sitting on the shelf awhile now. I don't want to get into how long exactly, but it does predate Ned's shop. :) I've never made a drawer at all, jig or no jig.

I'm thinking to make them out of plywood for the invisible parts (sides, bottoms, backs) and maybe some soft maple for the fronts (I have a little maple on hand). Right now, the only router I have is a PC8529 plunge, 2.25 hp that mostly lives in the table. I would like to get a fixed base router, especially for the dovetail jig, but I don't know if it is in the budget. If I can squeeze one out, how important is variable speed for a fixed base unit that is a 2nd router? Would one of those Hitachi 2.25 fixed base units do well? Or would it be easier somehow to use a PC router with the PC jig?

Next, what should I be reading and thinking about as I contemplate drawers? I feel like the biggest newbie here as far as actually using my tools.

Thanks!


ahem, I saw the topic of this thread and immediately thought... hey, he's got that shiny dovetail guide just sitting on the shelf, what's he scared of anyway? but I figured that I don't know from roofing, so what would I know about casework?

A drawer is a box, which you put into a bigger box, and for your reloading bench, your materials sound perfect!
 
I would go so far as to say that any bit big enough to need to be slowed down likely needs to be in a router mounted in a table. If you really need to spin a bit that large hand held--pull the motor out of the router table to do it.

I believe someone makes a universal base that will accept the PC guide bushings, so while a PC bushing compatible router would be a good choice, a really good buy on another brand might not need be eliminated out of hand regardless of it PC compatibility. Man it sounds strange talking PC compatible when talking about routers, but . . . nah, I won't go there.:rofl:
 
Mark,

First, fear not making drawers.
Second, you don't need to buy another router. Set the plunge to whatever depth you need and use it.
Third, think about how the drawers will work. Will they slide on store bought guides? be fit closely and run on shop made wooden parts? or something else?
I can talk at length with you about them. Any time. Have lots of types - from rough and ready shop ones to finely hand DTed.

Good luck,
Ken
 
I have used both a plunge and fixed base router and like the fixed base better. For materail, plywood will be fine. Just go slow and let the bit pulll it self thru the ply.
 
Thanks Ken. I think I will take you up on that offer. I am still planning / visualizing (haven't gotten to measuring yet) and am thinking about having a vertical divider down the middle of the top under-section of the bench and on the right side having two drawers and one big drawer on the left. I'm either going to use drawer slides or else just a simple box in the carcass deal if that would work. Just giving enough frame to support and guide the drawers.

If I went with slides, can the slide be shorter than the drawer if I am willing to live with only pulling the drawer out 2/3 the total length of the drawer? Would this make it difficult to insert / remove the drawer entirely?

I think I am starting to slide down that slippery slope of going from tool collector to woodworker! :eek: :dunno: :wave:
 
Hi Mark :wave:,
I always use the full extension drawer guides. My product is for function and usage. If you use the drawer guides, spring for the full extensions, KV. Accuride or what ever. Don't lessen your love of woodworking, desire to improve, and joy of your your achievement be out shined by a few dollars on an inferior product like a 3/4 extension. My stuff was always in the back 1/4 of the drawer with the 3/4 extensions "I use to have".
Shaz :)

.
Thanks Ken. I think I will take you up on that offer. I am still planning / visualizing (haven't gotten to measuring yet) and am thinking about having a vertical divider down the middle of the top under-section of the bench and on the right side having two drawers and one big drawer on the left. I'm either going to use drawer slides or else just a simple box in the carcass deal if that would work. Just giving enough frame to support and guide the drawers.

If I went with slides, can the slide be shorter than the drawer if I am willing to live with only pulling the drawer out 2/3 the total length of the drawer? Would this make it difficult to insert / remove the drawer entirely?

I think I am starting to slide down that slippery slope of going from tool collector to woodworker! :eek: :dunno: :wave:
 
Mark, I have the PC 4212 DT jig and I like it. I did 34 drawers for my shop cabs. I used BB plywood. I did have some tearout but scored a line at the bottom of the cut and this seemed to help.I also slowed my router down a little and that helped also. I don't know what speed I was running now.
 
I was declutterifying the shop the other day and noticed that I had left space for a drawer in my planer stand. So, I think that my very first drawer will be for said planer stand. Let me see, where did I put that planer stand post so you guys can see what I am talking about... here it is in post 12. The back of the space where said drawer will go is visible in the pic.

So, what I want to do for this simple drawer is the measure out the sides, back and front to just slightly under fit the opening available, right? And then the bottom should float a little in the grooves at the bottom of all the walls, maybe 1/8" to 1/4" play in each direction?
 
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