paperback book organizer planning

I need more clamps.. the clamp heads I recently bought from Doug - or I can buy some more.

cheap clamps or local yard for clamps that will not be as cheap.

I could have used an extra clamp I think I need 3 more clamps, so I should get 4 or 6. I have four clamps, I'll need two clamps at both top and bottom Then I will want three along the side panel I'll call my local friend and ask to borrow some clamps! I wonder how long the strap is for my mitered box clamp
I have 4 clamp heads from Doug, :wave:
Mark, I'm picking up on a pattern here. I think you need more clamps! :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Mark, I'm picking up on a pattern here. I think you need more clamps! :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Rennie - I think you're right. I am going to buy some more bar clamps before going forward with this project - at least 4 @ 36". Of course it wasn't until this morning I thought that maybe the local Big Lots might have some clamps for cheap too. :doh: Alternatively, my wife is taking this Thursday and Friday off, so I can take the econobox car - maybe I'll swing out the the not-so-local HF on the way home Friday.

Anyhow, maybe next weekend will see the fully assembled carcass. Now that the big panels are in the basement I suppose I ought to start cleaning up the shop space again throughout the week. Time to get back into the habit of putting something away when I walk through the garage.

Oh, Ned stopped by last night (I was tired - hope I didn't scare him off! :rofl:) and we figured out I have about a 1/2" clearance to the top of the doorway even with the unintended extra 3/4" overall height. :thumb:
 
Ok, after a bit of a hiatus (mostly due to an ongoing laminate floor install for my folks - they're getting off cheap with the new laptop I'm using to write this - very, very cheap, for 'Tis nary a straight wall nor square corner in their house to be seen) I've made some progress.

I've also been buying clamps. A couple at Woodcraft on the way home from 5 barns, a couple at a trip to my local Lowes and a couple while at the Home Depot near my folks while doing that laminate floor install. Just barely enough for this project now!

First, I learned some basic arithmetic. Namely that 8" - 2" != 7". ('!=' is the "not equal to" operator in the C programming language among others.) Spacing my #1 square drive trim head screws down the height of the carcass worked out just about perfectly with 2" on top and bottom. I remembered I used 7" before ... and then promptly marked and drilled and screwed using 2" to 8" markings on the large speed square without figuring out why the marks didn't match at the bottom. :doh: Oh well, it is done now. Good thing this is for the basement. If it ever gets put into living space I'll just make sure to put it in a corner.

Also, Ned was helpful and figured out that I cut my top and bottom pieces exactly the correct width of the shelf unit ... but not including extra width to fit into the dadoes. :doh: We came up with a plan - I went to Lowes and got a 2 by 10 stud. A couple crosscuts on the RAS, some ROS work and learning that my 18V ONE+ Ryobi planer is just about perfect for edge jointing 2 by dimensional lumber, and I had some pieces to fit into the dadoes. I'm going to lower my casters 3/4" and hopefully the bottom platform will slide under the 2 by 10 pieces and still clear the door to the garage from the basement.

Oh, putting these 2 by 10s in led to my very first all-on-my-own successful use of a tap! The 2 by 10s were just a hair thick for the dado, so I figured that the Ridgid oscillating spindle / belt sander (in belt mode) was just the thing to use. A 2 by 10 is about the capacity of the belt (ok, it is really closer to 9" capacity, a little touch up at the very end was needed) but the built-in stop thingee subtracted ~1.5" usable belt length. What I did was to tap 1/4"-20 into the bottom of the miter slot, and screwed in a long bolt with one of those really long nuts attached (I think they have a real name - for 1/4"-20, the total length of the nut is ~2"). Then the little baby miter guage that came with my HF bandsaw slid up to use that nut as a stop and I could use all of the belt for sanding!

I decided to use some free pine plywood for the top. The inside (which won't generally be visible) has seen better days. I probably should have went and bought another 3/4" birch panel. Oh well, it is done now.

Ok, I need to add some pics at some point. Need to install the GIMP on to this new puter first though.

I'll try to add pics soon!
 
Here is the pic for my belt sander stop. When I used it, I had the table in flat mode, but I keep it stored at 45 degrees. The piece of cherry intruding on the right of the pic is my RAS fence. This was $0.15 / bf as a defect wood at one of my local dealers that, though more expensive than some, guarantees 100% clear face. This was when I went for my first bulk (for me, only 200 bf) wood purchase and I figured I could splurge for a nice RAS fence.

sanderstop.JPG
 
After completing the table for my mother in law, I need to get this project done. I was stymied for a while about how to get the individual shelf units secured side - side. They're going to ride on the bottom of the carcass with casters, and a couple casters in the very front on the floor, but I couldn't figure out how to support them laterally.

I recently bought a 1 1/2" straight router bit for $10 directly from Leitz in order to maybe add a decorative veneer border on MIL's table. Now that I have this bit, I'm thinking that I could rout a groove down the middle of the top of a shelf unit and install a strip of plywood on the "ceiling" of the carcass as a guide.

Any reason this is a bad idea?
 
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