Working on live-edge walnut, have some questions

Mike Frencel

Member
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31
Location
Toronto, Ontario Canada
Hi guys,

I'm working on some walnut and have some questions. I'm new to wood working :)

1) I plan to use tung oil. Does anyone have any tips? How long should I leave it on before wiping off? Can I varnished over the oiled wood once dry or is there another step before varnishing?
2) I plan to use a black wood filler to fill some knots on the surface. I purchased Probond max by Elmer's. Ebony color. Is this product any good and is it ok to use with tung oil?
3) Can anyone recommend any varnish spray guns that don't require a compressor? Or do they all require one?
4) I'm looking for the below protection finish. I am aware that is sugar maple and not wallnut. I'm looking for that shiny buffed finish. My question is what kind of varnish do I use and is that effect from buffing the sealed wood with a buffer?
ScottVanity13.JPG


I know that's a lot of questions, I just don;t want to mess up :)

Thanks in advance!
Mike.
 
1. Are you talking about real, pure tung oil, or something like Minwax (or Formby's) "Tung Oil Finish"? If you're using real tung oil, it can take a long time (weeks) to fully cure enough to coat with another finish. If you're using the Minwax or Formby's product, there's really no need to apply varnish over it, since "Tung Oil Finish" is simply a wiping varnish that may or may not have a trace amount of tung oil in it. Keep in mind that neither real tung oil nor one of the "Tung Oil Finish" products lend themselves to spraying. They are both typically wiped on, then the excess is wiped off a few minutes later. I use Formby's Tung Oil Finish on a lot of my turned pieces. I typically only wait two or three minutes before wiping the excess away. (You want to wipe it up before it starts getting tacky.)

2. No experience with Probond, so I'll let someone else chime in on that one.

3. I've not heard of anyone using an airless sprayer for varnish. It might be possible, but I suspect the results are not great and that's why you don't hear about others doing it.

4. I'd be willing to bet the finish on that sink is a 2-part epoxy, not a varnish. It's often sold as "Bar Top Finish". That's about the only finish that would hold up under that kind of use. I've not used epoxy finish, but some folks buff it and others don't. (I'm assuming you're talking about using a mechanical buffer and a range of buffing compounds...not just rubbing it vigorously with a soft cloth.)
 
i also think that your example is a two part epoxy,, like vaughn said. i have sprayed heavy stain and paint with a airless sprayer but it have never seen varnish sprayed threw one.. be sure to show us your pictures of your progress on this:)
 
i think i can use my pressure washer as a compressor. As long as the pressure hose has the same connections.

I would vote against doing that. You'll burn up the pump in pressure washer in no time if it doesn't have water running through it. Also pretty sure the flow is going to be a bit on the low side.

I agree that the example looks like epoxy which is reasonably easy to apply, you just pour it on and use a light hand with a torch to pop bubbles. Of course if you mess it up fixing it is a bit more challenging.

The other finishes I could see using in that environment would be something like a table top finish waterlox and behlens rock hard come to mind. You can brush/wipe on either of those.
 
Well, I can't answer any of the question due to lack of knowledge, but that is a beautiful piece. I do have a question though, how do you keep it clean and prevent mildew from forming in all those crevices?
 
Mike, since this is all pretty new to you, I'd strongly suggest doing several test runs with your finish on scrap wood. Sounds like the walnut you're working with is a pretty unique piece, and it'd be a shame to mess it up with the finish. (And trust me, every experienced guy here has messed up plenty of good wood...I know I sure have.)

... I do have a question though, how do you keep it clean and prevent mildew from forming in all those crevices?

Short answer: you don't. Sinks like that are for places like a guest bathroom that gets used once or twice a year. I used to occasionally see similar "look but don't use" stuff in fancy houses in the LA area back when I was installing artwork for the rich and famous.
 
So i put my first coat of tung oil. I noticed that i have some marks on it :(. See pic below. can i use a 400 grit sand paper after 24 hours after the first coat to try to get it out? Has anyone fixed anything like the bellow.


wood.jpg
 
If the marks are in the finish, then yes, you should be able to get rid of them with 320 or 400 grit. You may sand through the finish, but no biggie...you're going to be doing multiple coats anyway. If the scratches are in the wood, the only way to remove them is to start sanding with a slightly finer grit than the scratches*, then work your way back up through the grits, and re-apply the finish. Anything short of that will be wasting your time. ;) Don't bother trying to salvage the single coat of finish you have.

There have been many times I've gotten a piece sanded down to 400 grit or so, only to discover one or two deep scratches. I just bite the bullet and re-run the grits again to remove the scratches. Experience has taught me that trying to shortcut things will only make the process take longer in the end.

That's a pretty piece of walnut. Are you using pure tung oil or "Tung Oil Finish"?




* If the scratches are deep. like those you'd see after sanding with 80 grit paper, it'll take forever to sand them out with 400 grit paper. You're better off to start with 120 grit paper until the scratches are completely gone. Then 220, 320, etc.
 
its pure tung oil. The scratches are not deep as i cannot feel them running y fingers over them. What do multiple coats of tung oil do, do they make the wood darker? It looks pretty dark after just one coat.
 
those scratches look like drum sander scratches and if so then you need to do as vaughn suggests, you could hit the scratch area with a little more finish and see if they go away.. it might be a trail from the finish that wasnt as wet as the rest of the top?
 
might have been a drum sander as that's how the slab was sanded originally. Its only visible at a specific angle with specific lighting. I will do a light 400 grit sand before next coat and see what happens
 
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It's not likely you would be able to feel 80 or 120 grit scratches, especially after a coat of tung oil. After you sand it, and before you apply more finish, wipe the surface with denatured alcohol. If the scratches are still there, the alcohol will help make them show up.

And yes, the tung oil will likely darken the wood a bit more, although the first coat causes the most change. At the of repeating myself, you should have discovered all of this on a test piece. ;) Being in a hurry usually causes a project to take much longer. This is especially true if you're trying new techniques. I'd bet all of the experienced guys here will agree with me on this. ;)
 
I'd bet a large box of donuts that those scratches are in the wood. Hard to tell for sure but I'm betting you will have to go back to at least 220 or maybe even 150 to get them out. It's pretty common to see that I haven't sanded enough when I put on the first wash coast. You can usually save a bit of time (and sandpaper) by wiping with a damp rag with either water or mineral spirits (NOT oil). The spirits evaporate quicker and IMHO show flaws better, but water works OK as long as you do it with a just barely damp but not wet rag.
 
It's not likely you would be able to feel 80 or 120 grit scratches, especially after a coat of tung oil. After you sand it, and before you apply more finish, wipe the surface with denatured alcohol. If the scratches are still there, the alcohol will help make them show up.

And yes, the tung oil will likely darken the wood a bit more, although the first coat causes the most change. At the of repeating myself, you should have discovered all of this on a test piece. ;) Being in a hurry usually causes a project to take much longer. This is especially true if you're trying new techniques. I'd bet all of the experienced guys here will agree with me on this. ;)

Can i use rubbing alcohol?

Quick question: I plan to apply the 2nd coat with 600 grit wet sandpaper. Do i wait 20 minutes after applying to wipe off or do i wipe off right after?
 
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Mike, I bought a walnut slab from Larry and am going to use it as a bartop between my kitchen and dining room. I am going to use the two part epoxy sometimes called liquid glass. There are many videos on it, this is the one I think shows me the best methods, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGxVikwTK1A , if it were for my bathroom, this is what I would suggest using. I couldn't find it, but there is another video showing them putting the finish on the bottom by taping the finished edge and putting one coat on the bottom, which is what I think I would do.
 
the finish is whats clogging your paper, i wouldnt put a second on this till you got the scratches out first and rubbing alcohol will work but DNA is what vaughn is suggesting and mineral spirits work to. you could get a micro mesh disc for your sander to help in the clogging problem. you could use some mineral spirts like a lubricant nd then sand your troubled areas which should lessen your clogging problem, but use a a wet sand paper or a scotch bright pad to do this, or micro mesh..
 
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