drawer construction?

Shop drawers drop into dados on the side or get pocketholed from the back where it doesn't show. Both methods then stop at the surface of the drawer bottom and get a screw or two (depending on width) through the bottom panel and into the back's bottom edge. For nicer pieces I use sliding dovetails because they look nice and attach the bottom panel the same way.
 
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1-800-hafele I cant make them for what I can buy them for... solid maple dovetail prefinished rounded over tops 5/8 thick walls, 1/4" ply bottoms 1/2" available for larger drawers and all machined for undermount slides. Average kitchen drawer costs me about 45 to 50 bucks and takes about 2 weeks.
 
I dado the sides, cut a dado for the drawer bottom all the way around, glue and 1/4" staples. Usually luan for the bottom, unless it's a larger drawer that will hold a lot, then I use piece of 1/2" ply for the bottom,
 
well found some info threw the net that i thought was good to share, and the author i have met so he has my approval if that means anything:)
whoops will need to get a link cant post a pdf here???

here is some good info.. PDF
i am sure the rest of the book would be a good source of info as well.. this guy is a good writer in my opinion.. and friendly fella too
 
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well found some info threw the net that i thought was good to share, and the author i have met so he has my approval if that means anything:)
whoops will need to get a link cant post a pdf here???

here is some good info.. PDF
i am sure the rest of the book would be a good source of info as well.. this guy is a good writer in my opinion.. and friendly fella too

Yes, Taunton Press has a large number of excerpts available. I could not find a page explicitly listing them, but this search brings up many results.

http://www.taunton.com/search/searc...cof=FORID:9&ie=UTF-8&q=excerpts&sa.x=0&sa.y=0

The excerpt from the book on edge finishing is particularly fascinating:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/pdf/edgetreatments.pdf
 
most of mine are done with sliding dt in the back. They are nice and strong and dont take much time to mill. If it is for a highend kitchen then it would be half blind dt on all for corners.
 
For shop furniture, the front of the drawers are made with interlocking dados and the backs just sit in dados, nailed and glued. The bottoms slide in from the back and are glue and nailed.

For nice stuff, the fronts are half-blind dovetailed into the front and the backs are through dovetailed. Sometimes, I will make through dovetails on the fronts as well and apply a false front to the drawer. Bottoms fit into housed dados all the way around. Sometimes they get glued, sometimes not, depending on whether I feel like it.
 
ok another question as a after thought? do you finish the inside of the drawers and if so what with,, i have had complaints on odor in the past so latly they get aired out for a couple weeks before they leave.. but that isnt always easy to do in winter time..
 
i'll agree with charles, go with the clear shellac. as for the backs of drawers, as there is little need for strength, i go with a rabbet at the ends of the sides, with a dado for the bottom in the back. a touch of glue, and a couple of brads, and it's good to go.
 
Half blind dovetails on all four/six corners. Birch & Cherry are my two most common specie, though I have done Soft Maple, Maple (PIA), and Walnut. The bottom is enclosed all the way around

Why? I think its the most attractive drawer. I hate Maple because its so hard to machine and sand though.
 
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