A 1930's Delta double duty lathe

Bart Leetch

Member
Messages
3,206
Location
Clinton, Washington on Whidbey Island
With lots of power & variable speed & reverse.

Well its over kill on this small lathe but I have 2 HP with a VFD hooked to it but that's temporary.

I tried it out last night to ruff this blank to round I just turned the speed up till the lathe started to vibrate the eased it back until it smoothed out it worked great & much easier & seemed to take less time.

In time I'll hook a bigger lathe to it. But for now it is better than trying to turn a 11" bowl at 740 RPM's let alone turning the 18 1/2" lazy Susan I just finished for our dining table.

I know I need some suggestions how to restrain the wires going into & out of the VFD. This is the way the motor shop connected it up. I am thinking of a L shaped sheet metal flange below it with holes for regular electrical wire restraints. The motor shop suggested mounting it to an aluminum plate as a heat sink I assume the plate should be spaced out from the wood it is mounted to to allow for air flow. I looked in the owner’s manual & there was no mention of an aluminum plate just clearance recommendations for air flow .
This is where I want to mount it until I get another lathe it is up out of the way & I can mount a piece of material on the left exposed side to protect it & still leave it open to air circulation.

I am thinking of building a bowl lathe or purchasing a Nova 16/24 or a Vega 2413B. I had this motor set up with both the 56 frame & the C frame so I can purchase or build what I want.

I need thoughts on whether I need a morse taper in the head for a bowl lathe? I have seen several shop built bowl lathes with no morse taper.

I still will have a Jet 1014 that & I can get the extension to turn spindles.

I most generally use a face plate to start my bowl turning starting with the bottom & a tenon then onto the chuck. I checked I can get a spindle made for about $100 with the 1 1/4 x 8 TPI & the other end turned to mount my pulley including key way, & then using flange bearings build my own head & a heavy duty bed from rail road iron, as in the pic attached. You can read about it here. http://www.woodcentral.com/shots/shot473.shtml I can get some 90# rail from a friend of mine. 90# for every 3' of rail. I am looking to make a 24" swing lathe What about ideas for a removable tail-stock that will be the right height & slide on & off the ways & clamp down properly to assist ruffing out. More later.
 

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dont know what to do for the lathe bart but that blank is SWEEET!!!! the quilting and the spaulting together in one package..make something to show as much of it as you can its gonna be one fine piece of wood bart!!
 
Don't really have any answers to your questions, but well done on getting the VFD setup. :thumb: Now you see what all the hoopla about variable speed is about, huh?
 
Woah there cowboy....i see the drive, i see the motor , now when you are at the lathe how do you control the speed?:dunno: I am still at the understanding what you dun stage.:D:thumb:
 
Woah there cowboy....i see the drive, i see the motor , now when you are at the lathe how do you control the speed?:dunno: I am still at the understanding what you dun stage.:D:thumb:

A little black knob on the control box.
I take 1/2 step to the left & can reach the knob easily it also puts me out of the path of harm when starting up or shutting down. I can actually reach the control without stepping over to the left but decided a long time ago if something is going wrong I wanted to just get out of the line of fire.

I still have the regular light switch on the left end of the bench that I used with the 110V motor that was on the lathe & when I thought something wasn't right I would step to the left as I shut it off too.
 
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