RAS table planning (warning: Woodcraft link)

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Central (upstate) NY
I bought my RAS (Delta 33-890 for the three new members who don't know this yet :wave: ) used and it did not come with any sort of table leveling mechanism. The last time I did a full calibration of the tool, before moving it, I used 30 gauge stovepipe scraps (three guess what I run for DC pipe) as shims. I'm wondering if I should get fancy with some of these next time.
 
I have another suggestion (but I think what you want to do will work, if you can lock the screws in place). Consider doing something like the Dewalt 925's have. This would amount to a piece of angle iron. Holes drilled into the top to bolt the table to it, and then slotted holes drilled into the sides. The slotted holes bolt onto the side of the fame, and you move the angle up/down to adjust the table. You could probably just buy a set of 925 table brackets and use them, but that might be a little expensive. Did your saw not have the metal bars and jack screws with it, you cold make the bars yourself (drill and tap the holes).
 
My thought was to bolt those levelers onto the frame of the saw with the table resting on the feet of the levelers.

Now that I've slept on it, if I did that, my RAS table and assembly table won't be the same height and I'll lose a convenient support option for long stock. Maybe I'll just shim again.
 
If I understand correctly, you're gonna mount these 'adjusters' under the table, not on the legs of the stand - right?

How often does the table need adjusted? If the saw is stationary, then the adjustments shouldn't change unless you remove/replace the table. In that case, the shim arrangement you've been using is really all you need. Sometimes 'old tech' is actually better ( and usually cheaper!) than 'high tech.'
 
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