my new radial arm saw

Messages
208
Location
central florida
IMG_0417.jpgIMG_0418.jpgIMG_0419.jpgIMG_0420.jpg


Well here it is. it is a beast. probably one of the dumber purchases of my life but who's to say. also shown is my 10hp rotary phase converter. they don't build them like this any more. it has a 1/2hp dayton starter motor and 10hp westinghouse motor for the phase conversion
I ended up paying $340 for the saw delivered and $200 for the phase convertor . The saw cost the the guy who delivered it $150 at the auction. Its an auction I almost went to but it was over 4 hours away so I ended up with what I would have been bidding on any way and i didn't have to drive. so thats a bonus.

Much to my disappointment, 3 of the carbide teeth on my 20" blade are broken. Everything else seems to be in great shape.

From what i can tell I will easily be able to do a 30" cross cut. probably more. the motor head seems to slide nice and smooth. the 90deg stop has a lot of play in it but I don't have to use the stop. I can lock it down to any angle I want and when its locked it is LOCKED TIGHT. The height mechanism works surprisingly well. Can't wait to get it running. If I only knew how.

It is a little big for my shop, and I do feel kinda insane for wanting this but I figure if I get it all hooked up correctly The combination of the saw and converter together should be at least double what I paid for them. The down side is I am trusting all parties that everything works.
 
well first of all congrats I guess, now let me ask you how much do you know about electricity and specifically how much do you know about 3 phase electricity. The box above the starter motor looks to be a magnetic starter. It appears to be wired into the line plug so I would assume it is to start the phase converter. If so you will need an additional mag starter and fuse protection between the phase converter and the saw.
 
Congrats, Keith. That is indeed a beast. :thumb:

...If so you will need an additional mag starter and fuse protection between the phase converter and the saw.

I'm not certain, but it looks like there's a magnetic switch built into the end of the saw arm.
 
Congrats, Keith. That is indeed a beast. :thumb:



I'm not certain, but it looks like there's a magnetic switch built into the end of the saw arm.
Unless it is built into the arm but that looks like a push button for starting activating the starter but typically a mag start would be a box containing the contactor and also the motor overloads. It would be to big to fit in the arm. a 7 1/2 hp motor at 230 Volts requires a size 1 starter which typically would be to big to fit in the arm. It might be mounted on the machine and not shown.
 
Keith in studying your picture I have a few observations. In the third picture the outer insulation appears to have either been pulled out of the strain relief that was there to protect the wires or has worn through. This is a danger since nor the current carrying conductors are out where the insulation can be damged which as a minimum will cause them to short out and trip a breaker but could ground out and cause a shock hazard.

In the last picture it appears from looking at it the starter for the rotory converter is on the upper left above the starter motor. You will notice a small white plug in module with a knob on top to the right of the contactor. This is a timer that is used to switch the starter motor off once the converter is up and running. If I were to guess I would guess that the box on the right contains some electrolytic capacitors. For safety sake put a cover over the starter. You can make one out of plexi-glass. I hope this helps.
 
Keith in studying your picture I have a few observations. In the third picture the outer insulation appears to have either been pulled out of the strain relief that was there to protect the wires or has worn through. This is a danger since nor the current carrying conductors are out where the insulation can be damged which as a minimum will cause them to short out and trip a breaker but could ground out and cause a shock hazard.

In the last picture it appears from looking at it the starter for the rotory converter is on the upper left above the starter motor. You will notice a small white plug in module with a knob on top to the right of the contactor. This is a timer that is used to switch the starter motor off once the converter is up and running. If I were to guess I would guess that the box on the right contains some electrolytic capacitors. For safety sake put a cover over the starter. You can make one out of plexi-glass. I hope this helps.

The loose insulation you appears to be more of a flexible conduit than just insulation. it looks as though there is a piece it slides into but I haven't checked it out to closely yet. I had no idea what that little dial was for. I am guessing the cover that is missing had a hole the little dial would stick out of so it could be adjusted. Thanks for cluing me in. I will definitely build a cover for it when its all hooked up.


There is a big starter switch in a heavy steel box attached to the frame. the guy who owned it thought it was a phase converter but I was pretty certain it wasn't. Now that I took the cover off the box I see I was correct. it looks like a larger version of the one seen in the phase converter picture. I need to pick up a new volt meter and test the legs of the phase converter and get this puppy running.
Like everyone, I sure wish I had more time.

On a positive note. My wife says she has decided not to divorce me after buying what is obviously a very frivolous machine. I would like to think that when she sees me make my first 30" cross cut she will change her mind on the saws usefulness but I doubt it.
 
There is a big starter switch in a heavy steel box attached to the frame. the guy who owned it thought it was a phase converter but I was pretty certain it wasn't. Now that I took the cover off the box I see I was correct. it looks like a larger version of the one seen in the phase converter picture. I need to pick up a new volt meter and test the legs of the phase converter and get this puppy running.
Like everyone, I sure wish I had more time.

+

The black stuff is actually the outer coating for the wire s inside and is an insulator just not the only insulator, my concern is that whatever caused it to brake could also do it to the conductors. The way you describe the starter switch is vary well could be starter if it is then you saved your self about $170 cause that's what a new one costs. Take a picture of it and I'll let you know. BTW don't get me wrong it looks like a great saw I am just trying to help and keep you safe. I have over 30 years of industrial motor and control experience so if you have questions ask away.
 
The black stuff is actually the outer coating for the wire s inside and is an insulator just not the only insulator, my concern is that whatever caused it to brake could also do it to the conductors. The way you describe the starter switch is vary well could be starter if it is then you saved your self about $170 cause that's what a new one costs. Take a picture of it and I'll let you know. BTW don't get me wrong it looks like a great saw I am just trying to help and keep you safe. I have over 30 years of industrial motor and control experience so if you have questions ask away.

Excellent. I could use the help. I will try and post some better pictures when i get home from work.

thanks.
 
Ok what a monster but i gotta ask what does a person need a saw like this for? Is this a substitute for a table saw?
Sorry but i figure this is a huge industrial machine and even in an industrial application i dont get it. Especially the whole 3 phase thing.
I guess a lumber place could cut thick slabs down with something like this dunno???

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
SS853076.jpgSS853077.jpgSS853079.jpgSS853080.jpgSS853081.jpg


I couldn't wait to post the electrical pictures. now I'm late for work but thats the benefit of being self employed

The first picture is of the bank of capacitors , the second should be a closer picture of the magnetic switch on the converter, the third is the power outlet and junction box. the insulation on the outlet plug has pulled away from the box but the insulation is sound and has no cracks. on the picture of the magnetic switch there is a bundle of wire taped up. that wire is for the power in and has been cut at the outside where it enters the box. You can see it in picture three. Picture 4 is of the started switch on the saw and picture 4 is the saws power cord. looks pretty beefy. The plug on the saw looks as though it will mate up with the outlet on the converter.
 
OK so it looks like all the pieces are there. Pic 4 is indeed a starter so I would use blow it all out real good make sure all the connections are tight take care of any loose/frayed cords and slowly bring this beast back to life. Do you have a spare 50 amp breaker in your panel to feed this beast from ?
 
OK so it looks like all the pieces are there. Pic 4 is indeed a starter so I would use blow it all out real good make sure all the connections are tight take care of any loose/frayed cords and slowly bring this beast back to life. Do you have a spare 50 amp breaker in your panel to feed this beast from ?

My planer is on a 50 amp. I will probably share that outlet. plug in the machine I am using. I have the shop wired for a 240 outlet right where I have the RAS positions but I can not remember what gage it is. I know it is no where near as big as the extension cord that is on the RAS but it is at least 10 gage maybe bigger. have to check. I know the planer is either 8 or 6 gage wire. I quit work early and stopped by a harber freight tools and picked up a free 7 function multi meter I had a coupon for so i can test the current.
I have to get a few things done around here and then I am going to start going over the phase converter.
 
ever since I started wood working I have always wanted a really great cross cut station and a machine to make dados. When I heard how long the arm was on this thing I figured it would meet all my needs (except for my want of something big enough to cross cut a full sheet of plywood. no real need for it just want to do it)

Any way the saw was $350 delivered. The guy actually let me have it for $340. I would have never bought it if some other person didn't happen to be selling a giant phase converter for such a good price. Just seemed like everything fell so neatly into place it was meant to be. If I don't end up liking it I figure I could always sell it. they still make things like this so some one must use them for something. Once its running and tests out I bet I could get more than $500 for it. Probably closer to $1500 with the converter. its a little bit of a gamble but you tell me.

what is the reason I wouldn't have wanted it under these circumstances?
 
Ok;
I looked over the converter. the only wires that appeared to be bad were the old line in that had been cut anyway. they were huge. I mean about as big a my little finger. I removed the old line in. the ground was hooked to a number of smaller grounds( i think 5) with a large crimping bolt. I changed that idea and made 2 pig tails , 3 on one and 2 on the other, with 12 gage solid wire on each one and a wire nut. then I took each one and wire nutted it to the temporary ground. I say temporary because I am using a short 10/3 just to make sure if I can get it up and running. It will only be running for a minute to test it out. if everything is ok I will buy some 6 gage to make its new plug.

I checked my new multi meter with my power source. I am getting 250 across both legs and 125 across one leg and ground. I know the two legs on the magnetic starter that I need to use.

My first question is does it matter which pole is which?

my second (and more important) I can't see a wireing diagram on the 10hp to tell me if it is set up at 230 or 460
my third should I clean the contacts of the magnetic starter first or wait and see if it latches without any problems and if I should clean it would alcahol do or does it need to be something like acetone?

I really appreciate the help.
 
Top