Beginners Router?

Greg Brimer

Member
Messages
59
I am trying to begin my adventure in woodworking and I'm reading and watching video as much as I can. Right now I am watching a Video series called
The Router a beginners guide which is made by The Guild of Master Craftsman publications. They say it might be best for a beginner to start out with one
of the smaller routers. Right now I am looking at these two.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611...FUK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329662693&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-RP0900...ower-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1329663303&sr=1-5

I would like the members advice on what they think. I respect the opinions of the members and value your input. I am leaning toward the Dewalt.
The smaller routers may be good for me because last year I had a ceiling fall on me while I was sleeping and it crushed four vertebra in my neck.
It caused nerve damage in my left arm and it is not as strong as my right. Even after surgery ( they inserted rods and plates and replaced some disc )
it hasn't gotten much better. Sorry for the long post.

Greg

P.S.....Within the next month I am going to build bunk beds for my sons. I got the plans from Matthias Wandel's website.
 
Hi Greg, I am sure you will get some great advise on routers here:) I am by no means highly knowledgeable but I think the 1 1/4 hp routers are a little under powered and use a 1/4" collet which will limit bits available. I would go up to at least a 1 3/4 hp version that uses a 1/2" collet such as http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-...411C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1329664670&sr=8-4. I have this version and use it by hand and in my router table. I would prefer a 3 1/4 hp in the router table, but all in good time. The weight between the 1 1/4 hp to the 1 3/4 hp models is not much:)
 
depending on your funds for this endeavor, i would give the porter cable 690, the bosch 1617 or the milwaukee 5615 a look.. we have a lady on here that knows so much about routers that she was called the router lady for many years and wrote a book on them.. she is busy on the wknds but if you can wait for her response it would be well worth your time,, her name is carol reed.. and i also agree that you need the 1/2" collet to make your journey into this wood working much more satisfying.. there is a saying here and many other places "try to buy once not twice". we dont always listen to what we are told and most of us didnt listen earlier but do know:) so we are just tryun to save one mis step:) the plunge capability is necessary but the packages that offer it are usually worth the extra and there is definitely a need for plunge once you start down this path:) ask many questions and welcome to our family:)
 
Last edited:
Hi Greg, I am sure you will get some great advise on routers here:) I am by no means highly knowledgeable but I think the 1 1/4 hp routers are a little under powered and use a 1/4" collet which will limit bits available. I would go up to at least a 1 3/4 hp version that uses a 1/2" collet such as http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-...411C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1329664670&sr=8-4. I have this version and use it by hand and in my router table. I would prefer a 3 1/4 hp in the router table, but all in good time. The weight between the 1 1/4 hp to the 1 3/4 hp models is not much:)

I agree with Greg I started with 690 kit with the fixed-plunge & D-handle & single speed I would go a step further & get a kit like this with variable speed.

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-...Variable/dp/B00009OYFG/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0
 
The small DeWalt you show is a nice router but, is really a trim router on steroids like the Bosch Colt. Extremely useful but, probably not what I would pick as a first router. As others have said, now that there are good quality combo units on the market, the old adage "if you can only have one make it a plunge". I would update that to "make it a combo". +1 on the Milwaukeesl one of the smoothest plunge combos I have tried but, everyone has their favorites. I still have a Colt but once I got my first Mil, the other routers I had sort of found their way down the road. I have a couple 5625's in lifts, 5615 and 5616 combos (all my routers were bought during some sale or another but, a good combo comes in around $200 or so).

A neat feature is that the 5615 and 5616 motors will swap between bases so you can start with a 5615-24 and add a more powerful 5616 motor-only later if you want. I eventually gathered multiple combos and now have plunge and fixed bases with different plates for different functions. I just slip in the motor with the power I need for the job and go. The Bosch units get high praise and their new form-factor (although a little pricey for a starter-router) refines the multiple bases concept. Although I don't own one, a D-handle is high on my list of wants. Again, I would not go with a D as a starter router from most makers as they are often proprietary to their base. This means if you want to plunge, buy another router . . . not that having more than one is a bad thing :rolleyes:.

Mil-Crew-Update.jpg

There are some good machines out there in the same basic price range. If you can get your hands on one, that will pretty much seal the deal. What feels good in my hands may not feel as good to you. Routers are somewhat of a personal tool so getting a candidate in your hands is a good way to make your best decision. Table routing is 90% of my routing and several combos (including the Milwaukees) would let you leave the fixed base in the table and use the plunge base for free hand. The Mil comes with a t-wrench to adjust bit height from above the table.
 
Last edited:
Be sure to check the Bosch 1617EVS-PK. It's the kit with plunge and fixed bases. I bought that kit and two other 1617EVS routers. You can't go wrong with the 1617 as a starter!
 
I wouldn't give it a second thought and get the Makita. While yes down the road you may want to add to the router collection with a bigger horse. This little one will serve well for years to come. Just ask my 20 year old one:thumb: Why just yesterday it got the call to duty.
 
Small routers just can't do the work of a regular sized one. They do rest on the work so shouldn't be a burden on your left shoulder. I bought a Skil 1820 after reading a comparison review of routers. It got top rating in all features including comfort, ergonomics, etc. Downside is it doesn't have the bearings that expensive models have and won't last as many years under heavy use. I bought mine used from Ebay for $25.00, including shipping and it is going strong five years later, with occasional use. New they are only about $100.00.
 
Small routers just can't do the work of a regular sized one.
Well said Frank and with that I will add that I would rather do an occasional big job with a small router. Than lots of small stuff with a big router.:thumb::thumb: My littler PC laminate trimmer prolly gets more run time than my big 3 hp Festool. But that Festool is a bit cumbersome to run on something 2" wide just for a round over bit.:thumb:
So I guess the point her is what is your main job for said router? An OG or rounding over the edge of some small box? Or running big panel bits? Are you running it by hand or in a table? Them bigger horse routers can have quite the thrust when you snap them on. I know with my 1 3/4 HP PC you want to have both hands on the wheel when you hit the switch. Keep in mind I have 6 routers veering from small 1/8 HP to a big 3 HP, each has it's own job to do in the shop.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. I will have to look into all the suggestions. I do know that I will go with the bigger router. Does any of those suggested have above table height adjustment. It would make those adjustments easier.
 
Well said Frank and with that I will add that I would rather do an occasional big job with a small router. Than lots of small stuff with a big router.:thumb::thumb: My littler PC laminate trimmer prolly gets more run time than my big 3 hp Festool. But that Festool is a bit cumbersome to run on something 2" wide just for a round over bit.:thumb:
So I guess the point her is what is your main job for said router? An OG or rounding over the edge of some small box? Or running big panel bits? Are you running it by hand or in a table? Them bigger horse routers can have quite the thrust when you snap them on. I know with my 1 3/4 HP PC you want to have both hands on the wheel when you hit the switch. Keep in mind I have 6 routers veering from small 1/8 HP to a big 3 HP, each has it's own job to do in the shop.

Chuck I would like to use a router table most of the time but I know that is not always possible. As a beginner I probably won't be using big bits at the start. Thank you for your advise.
 
Hey, Greg,

I think you are reading my book so you will know 'what' features to look for. After reading your post regarding your physical condition let me offer a thought or two. I too, have severe neck damage with its associated hand and arm strength issues. So FWIW......

First decide what you plan to use the router for. It is an extremely versatile machine but there is no need to try to buy one that will do everything. Life offers compromises. Router uses fall largely into two camps; light trimming and edge shaping & joinery work with large bits and heavy machines.

Next, routers fall into various 'sizes.' Many people rate them by horsepower. Rate them by power instead and power is rated by amps. Read the motor label. You want one between 13 & 15 amps. More amps means a much heavier machine and you and both have neck and back issues that affect hand and arm strength.

Routers in this class offer both 1/3" and 1/2" collets and fixed and plunge bases. If you are not getting a combo kit (both bases, one motor) then get the fixed base first. It is much easier to mate to jigs and routers use jigs - lots of them. The first 'jig' is the router table.

This class router will also offer variable speed, a very nice function, and I would shop accordingly. As for brands, all those already mentioned are just fine, no real preference. Also routers in this class typically weigh in at around 6 pounds. If you find one much lighter, be a little skeptical about how much plastic is included, as opposed to metal. Ask here before shelling out the bucks. As Larry put it, buy right once. The price of your machine ought to be the very last consideration. First you want what you can handle and need. Then you can choose what you'd like.

Remember this. What works for one doesn't work for all. The first issue that you cannot change and that you must accommodate is your ability to handle the machine. Not all router work is done on the table. Not all is done handheld. First find one that works in your hands. Then we can find/make jigs for IT, and choose the right bits for the work you plan to do with IT. IT being YOUR router.

This is for the rest of the guys and gals. Never buy a machine based what what it is capable of doing unless you really intend to do everything it is capable of. For every feature a tool has, a compromise of some sort has been made to accommodate that feature. What we don't want is the very features we will use the most to be the ones most compromised. Buy for the immediate needs. If your really ever get around to other things, then go shopping for those features.

Personally, I find a ~6 pound router, with variable speed, capable of using a variety of collets, with a fixed base to be my favorite and most used machine. I rarely have a use for a plunge machine and absolutely hate them in a router table, though I do have a couple of plunge options. Well, with around a dozen routers (down from over 4 dozen) I really can't help but have a few plunge options. :eek: And nobody needs that many routers. That is just the collateral collection after 20 years as the Router Lady.

HTH
 
Last edited:
Well Greg i will give you my 5 cents, my first router was bought on price...all in one plunge base black and decker. Only took 1/4" shank bits. Sorry but it is pure junk. Its got all the compromises Carol mentioned.

My next buy was a porter cable combo kit but i did not get the 690 since in my view if you want to put it in a table a router needs power. The kit i got was the pc 890 you see this router is physically the same size and weight as the 690 but has extra power and variable speed. It has a variety of collets available and the combo kit permits a base to mounted in the table and adjusted from above the table. Ithink one of the Milwaukee units Glenn mentioned in his thread can do the same as this unit combo. If i had to buy again i would get the Milwaukee. PC castings are no longer what they were.
But i gotta agree with Chuck too. I recently got given a gift of a Bosch Colt with variable speed by a very special friend and only a few days ago got to try it out for the first time. Boy what a delight to handle given its weight.

I can only echo..if you have Carols book thats all you need. Remember one thing that has not been said here yet. Its all good and well you get xyz router but the part i really learn the dumb old hard way was about the bits. It was not until i settled down to read Carols words in her book about the bits that the penny dropped and i surrendered to stop buying cheapie junk bits. There is no getting away from the fact that in woodworking fundamentally understanding the cutting edge of any tool and taking steps to make sure you are using sharp edges will make all the difference.
So save some money for bits but dont dont be tempted to buy the bit variety kits on the "just in case" basis. Buy good bits on a as you need em basis. In this regard Tom has made the all important point about the router having a collet that can handle 1/2 inch shanks and where possible stick to buying 1/2 inch shank bits.

As Larry has said please learn from our mistakes of having walked the same route twice to eventually get to where we could have arrived had we been prepared to accept advise.
I am still not totally cured from buying junk. I dunno i blame it on my ancestors lol :)

Best of luck and hey feel free to ask a million questions never mind how crazy you might feel it is. Get to fully understand what you getting into before you let your $$$$$ go

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
Well this is why I love this site. So much good advise. Everyone seems to want to help and that is refreshing to say the least. Carol I'm half way through the book. Thanks to everyone for your help and advise. Had to head to the ER last night or I would have responded earlier. I have kidney stones that are killing me. I am leaning toward the Milwaukee.
 
The Milwaukee is an excellent router. I have all three of their sizes 1-3/4 2-1/4 and 3-1/2 hp in my shop as well as a few porter cable models and a dewalt plunge. What I like about the Milwaukee is the ergonomics of the body with that molded grip. It also lends itself well to router table use and the micro adjust is very handy. IMO you cant go wrong with the 2-1/4. And as you want to do more with it you can get the various bases.
I have had the 3-1/2 hp for about ten years now and the other two for about 8. They all work flawlessly.
 
Nothing new here, but for starting out, i'd go with versatility. The kits with fixed and plunge bases that can take a 1/2" and a 1/4" bit. Soft start is also a great thing. Variable speed may or may not be necessary, depending on what you'll be doing. Also, get some good hearing and eye protection. You might not really know how you'll use a router most often until you get further into woodworking and know exactly what types of projects you'll want to do and how you'll go about doing them. I have a 3hp router that gets used once in a great while. My mid sized router (1-1/2 hp) gets used somehow or other in about half my projects. If i had a 1/4" trim router i'd probably use it a lot more than the others - mostly because i avoid using the bigger routers - i don't like all of the setup with jigs. I'm much more inclined to freehand rounding over edges or trimming laminate. I find the 1/4" trim routers easier to use and less intimidating than the big dog. For the most part, i don't enjoy using the router all that much - very noisy and difficult to manage the dust (shop is in the basement of my house). And, if you're not careful, they can get away from you until you've got some experience.

All that said, the router is one of the most versatile tools in the shop. I'd start with something mid sized (1-1/2 or 2hp) that easily adapts to a wide range of tasks. Most of the models mentioned would fit the bill. I'd shop for the best deal and stay with a good name brand. Avoid cheap stuff - it'll only frustrate you.
 
Well yesterday I came across a deal that I thought was to good to pass up. A local for sale website had a Ryobi RE175 1-3/4 HP Plunge router. They wanted 25.00 for it. It came with 5 new bits. Four are Bosch bits and one is a Freud. It also had a install kit for a BT3000 Ryobi table saw. There is also two mounting plates in the kit that are aluminum. I don't know if I did bad but I felt the price couldn't be beat.
 
Top