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- Springfield, Missouri
Thanks! Yeah, I ordered one of those lighting kits t try out, but do plan to make my own also.
Darren's K40 Laser/Updates
- Thread starter Darren Wright
- Start date
- Messages
- 20,175
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
I received my Cohesion3d Mini board this week and got it installed last night. It took some swapping of the motor connections to get them right, both were opposite of what they showed on the instructions, but not their fault as the motor manufactures aren't consistent in their use of wiring colors.
Today I received some black acrylic which I used to cut out a new control panel to incorporate the gLCD display, coolant/temp sensor, voltage display, and some additional switches. Brent was kind enough to provide me with his panel design, which I made a few changes too as I wanted to re-use the original test and laser buttons. However, I overlooked that I removed the hole for the laser intensity knob, so had to drill that one in after things were being assembled.
I started with a prototype out of 1/8" plywood
I took advantage of the fact that the protective paper was still in place and used it to color fill the lettering.
I found I need to fill in the hole in the bottom of the laser cabinet as the wood desk will be getting charred quite often.
Here is the finished control panel and back plug panel. I'm waiting for some switches to arrive to finish up the back panel install.
I added some cable chain for the air hose today too.
Also printed out a warning plaque, which I found pretty funny.
Today I received some black acrylic which I used to cut out a new control panel to incorporate the gLCD display, coolant/temp sensor, voltage display, and some additional switches. Brent was kind enough to provide me with his panel design, which I made a few changes too as I wanted to re-use the original test and laser buttons. However, I overlooked that I removed the hole for the laser intensity knob, so had to drill that one in after things were being assembled.
I started with a prototype out of 1/8" plywood
I took advantage of the fact that the protective paper was still in place and used it to color fill the lettering.
I found I need to fill in the hole in the bottom of the laser cabinet as the wood desk will be getting charred quite often.
Here is the finished control panel and back plug panel. I'm waiting for some switches to arrive to finish up the back panel install.
I added some cable chain for the air hose today too.
Also printed out a warning plaque, which I found pretty funny.
- Messages
- 16,587
- Location
- Reno NV
Nice! I'm going to need the svg for that sign, lol.
- Messages
- 20,175
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Here are the svg and Light Burn files
- Messages
- 20,175
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Today I played around with more cutting, made my wife some Halloween decorations.
Next was adding a visible laser pointer to let me see approximately where the actual laser is pointing when setting up the machine for work. This involved adding a leaf switch to the door, which will also serve as an interlock switch to stop the laser when the door is opened as well as power the laser The laser pointer turns on when the cabinet is opened and is mounted on a 3d printed a thing that drops down into the path of where the laser would normally be shooting onto the mirror and into the lens to illuminate the location of the laser on the work.
Also, I've been working on a motorized Z table for the laser. The rest of my pulleys and belts came today, so was able to get it assembled. It had a belt tensioner that was 3d printed, but didn't care for the design, so came up with my own high tech idea...a zip tie.
Here is the first test...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9CE2eoPFsY
Next was adding a visible laser pointer to let me see approximately where the actual laser is pointing when setting up the machine for work. This involved adding a leaf switch to the door, which will also serve as an interlock switch to stop the laser when the door is opened as well as power the laser The laser pointer turns on when the cabinet is opened and is mounted on a 3d printed a thing that drops down into the path of where the laser would normally be shooting onto the mirror and into the lens to illuminate the location of the laser on the work.
Also, I've been working on a motorized Z table for the laser. The rest of my pulleys and belts came today, so was able to get it assembled. It had a belt tensioner that was 3d printed, but didn't care for the design, so came up with my own high tech idea...a zip tie.
Here is the first test...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9CE2eoPFsY
- Messages
- 16,587
- Location
- Reno NV
Very cool. I've got the parts, I just need to print them up.
- Messages
- 20,175
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
It may get some re-design to relocate the motor outside the frame, but will use it as is for now. Next will be printing up parts for a rotary.
- Messages
- 20,175
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Finally got my step settings updated for the z table, it was moving about 5mm for every 1mm. Now with the software I can set the material thickness and the table will adjust to the correct focal point for that thickness and adjust for each pass if it requires multiple passes. 
Also played around with some borg acrylic the other night. Lesson learned is to remove the plastic film when doing engraving operations as it melts it into the acrylic making it tough to remove, and it doesn't look very good, but still impressed with just how thin it can cut some areas.
Next up is a Rotary, I've upgraded the firmware to enable the A axis, which will let me drop the rotary in when I want to engrave round things. I'm in the process of 3d printing parts to build the rotary.
Also played around with some borg acrylic the other night. Lesson learned is to remove the plastic film when doing engraving operations as it melts it into the acrylic making it tough to remove, and it doesn't look very good, but still impressed with just how thin it can cut some areas.
Next up is a Rotary, I've upgraded the firmware to enable the A axis, which will let me drop the rotary in when I want to engrave round things. I'm in the process of 3d printing parts to build the rotary.
- Messages
- 16,587
- Location
- Reno NV
Zoom! You're racing ahead. I've got my Z table mostly put together, but have some more parts to print.
I did order parts for the rotary as well. Folks are in town so won't be able to do any work on things till next week.
Unfortunately, I think the cog on my 3d printers extruder is clogged, as it's having trouble with pla, so need to do a little tear down and clean up on it.
I did order parts for the rotary as well. Folks are in town so won't be able to do any work on things till next week.
Unfortunately, I think the cog on my 3d printers extruder is clogged, as it's having trouble with pla, so need to do a little tear down and clean up on it.
- Messages
- 20,175
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Just a few updates to the z table and rotary.
For the z table, I printed off some index holders that are stuck to the bottom of the cabinet with 2 faced automotive grade tape. This will allow me to remove the table if need be and put it back to the same location each time.
The front two had to have one edge removed to allow some room for the table to slide into place
Otherwise they fit great and did the job.
The upgrade to the rotary was to make one set of rollers adjustable to allow a larger diameter object to be engraved. This should allow me to get up to 2.5" - 3" diameter pieces on there. I may widen this some more and cut out the wood base below the work to allow another inch larger object to fit on there.
Currently I have planned to do some patterns on some play dough rollers and some cookie/pastry press rollers.
I also have some aluminum perforated metal to swap out for the cut bed. I'm planning to adhere some edge guides with mm marks on them for helping to get things aligned and make it where I can easily setup re-usable alignment jigs/templates for locating work repeatably.
For the z table, I printed off some index holders that are stuck to the bottom of the cabinet with 2 faced automotive grade tape. This will allow me to remove the table if need be and put it back to the same location each time.
The front two had to have one edge removed to allow some room for the table to slide into place
Otherwise they fit great and did the job.
The upgrade to the rotary was to make one set of rollers adjustable to allow a larger diameter object to be engraved. This should allow me to get up to 2.5" - 3" diameter pieces on there. I may widen this some more and cut out the wood base below the work to allow another inch larger object to fit on there.
Currently I have planned to do some patterns on some play dough rollers and some cookie/pastry press rollers.
I also have some aluminum perforated metal to swap out for the cut bed. I'm planning to adhere some edge guides with mm marks on them for helping to get things aligned and make it where I can easily setup re-usable alignment jigs/templates for locating work repeatably.
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- Messages
- 8,478
- Location
- Yorktown, Virginia
- Messages
- 20,175
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
So I wanted to give some feedback on the machine for anyone interested.
I would suggest skipping use of the OEM software and download K40 Whisperer (free) and it's inkscape plugin (free) to use instead if you stick with the OEM controller.
The factory potentiometer seemed to work on my laser just fine, but wasn't too consistent with adjustments and jumped around a bit. It worked, but the 10 turn potentiometer upgrade below is a pretty nice, cheap upgrade.
You need to keep the laser in a controlled heated/cooled environment as you're circulating water for coolant and you don't want it to freeze or get nasty.
Smoke and smells will come out of the machine with the factory fan. I've got an inline fan I'm installing outside of my office with a higher cfm rate to help keep this down, but keep that in mind when choosing a place to run it.
Never leave the machine running unattended, it's a laser and things can catch on fire.
I leave the coolant pump running 24/7 and check for any air bubbles in the laser tube before running the laser.
The temp sensor was added to check the coolant temp, try not to run the laser over 20C as it shortens the life of the tube. I've been using a frozen 2 liter bottle of water dropped in my 5 gallon bucket of coolant water to bring the temp down to abou 18C-19C while I'm using the laser.
Below is just a quick summary of the costs for each phase of my upgrades, keep in mind some items I bought in bulk and will use on other projects, such as the GT2 pulleys and belts, not all are needed for the laser upgrades. As a matter of fact, The basic machine without any upgrades works quite well once you align mirror/lens. The basic costs are the recommended items to use the machine as it comes, air pump is really optional, but I'd not recommend running without it as smoke distorts the laser and can dirty the lenses and mirrors.
Besides the above updated, here are links to some 3d printed parts I used:
Air nozzle: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2421971
2nd mirror mounting bracket: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3113544
Exhaust vent replacement: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1627210
I would suggest skipping use of the OEM software and download K40 Whisperer (free) and it's inkscape plugin (free) to use instead if you stick with the OEM controller.
The factory potentiometer seemed to work on my laser just fine, but wasn't too consistent with adjustments and jumped around a bit. It worked, but the 10 turn potentiometer upgrade below is a pretty nice, cheap upgrade.
You need to keep the laser in a controlled heated/cooled environment as you're circulating water for coolant and you don't want it to freeze or get nasty.
Smoke and smells will come out of the machine with the factory fan. I've got an inline fan I'm installing outside of my office with a higher cfm rate to help keep this down, but keep that in mind when choosing a place to run it.
Never leave the machine running unattended, it's a laser and things can catch on fire.
I leave the coolant pump running 24/7 and check for any air bubbles in the laser tube before running the laser.
The temp sensor was added to check the coolant temp, try not to run the laser over 20C as it shortens the life of the tube. I've been using a frozen 2 liter bottle of water dropped in my 5 gallon bucket of coolant water to bring the temp down to abou 18C-19C while I'm using the laser.
Below is just a quick summary of the costs for each phase of my upgrades, keep in mind some items I bought in bulk and will use on other projects, such as the GT2 pulleys and belts, not all are needed for the laser upgrades. As a matter of fact, The basic machine without any upgrades works quite well once you align mirror/lens. The basic costs are the recommended items to use the machine as it comes, air pump is really optional, but I'd not recommend running without it as smoke distorts the laser and can dirty the lenses and mirrors.
| Basic Costs | Cost | Notes |
| K40 - Analog Version | $334.59 | ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/172688600658 use k40Whisperer and inkscape plugin (both free), skip using OEM software |
| Distilled Water | $10.00 | 4 gallons, from grocery store, do not use tap water |
| Algae Biocide | $5.49 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D4TNH8 |
| dawn dish soap | 1/4 ounce | |
| Air pump | $30.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07919S51M |
| Air hose | $6.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW |
| $386.08 | ||
| Optional Upgrades | ||
| Cohesion3d Controller | $140.00 | |
| Lightburn software | $40.00 | 1 year support |
| A4988 Drivers | $10.00 | Z & A Axis |
| USB Cable | $10.00 | Better quality than what came with K40 |
| 10 turn potentiometer, 5k | $11.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8KN6QW |
| Digital volt meter | $2.40 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YALV0NG |
| 24v power supply | $20.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CS5G8J6 |
| Coolant Temp and flow sensor | $15 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A0HIEFU |
| $248.40 | ||
| Z Table (optional) | Will require controller upgrade to Cohesion3d or ramps for motorized version, there are manual versions on thingiverse | |
| GT2 pulleys 20t 8MM bore | $10.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVC3NXK |
| GT2 pulleys 20t 5MM bore | $9.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IMR6OR0 |
| GT2 idler pulley 5mm bore | $10.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9GBWVS |
| 1220 mm GT2 idler belt loop | $19.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B018HMU9NU |
| 8mm tnut 4 start | $10.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N8QD6C |
| Lead screw 8mm 4 start | $14.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0728FT5TZ |
| Nema 17 83 oz/in stepper motor | $14.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQKC0 |
| Perforated Aluminum Sheet | $25.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKJJSLP |
| 3/4" x 3/4" square tubing 2@36" | $25.00 | Lowes |
| 3d printed parts | https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3156674 and motor mount from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3158394 or just build the second thing | |
| $136.00 | ||
| Rotary (optional) | Can swap motor plug with Y axis plug or upgrade to a Cohesion3d or Ramps controller | |
| 3d printed parts | https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3174149 | |
| threaded rod | $4.00 | Lowes |
| GT2 timing belt | $7.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074W229W1 |
| GT2 pulleys 20t 8MM bore | $10.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVC3NXK |
| GT2 pulleys 20t 5MM bore | $9.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IMR6OR0 |
| Nema 17 83 oz/in stepper motor | $14.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQKC0 |
| O-rings | $11.00 | https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00595Y8WM |
| $55.00 |
Besides the above updated, here are links to some 3d printed parts I used:
Air nozzle: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2421971
2nd mirror mounting bracket: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3113544
Exhaust vent replacement: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1627210
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