Making a tabletop

[Greg Heichel]

Hello all,

I just invested in a jointer and planer. As I was practicing making tabletops I noticed that when I joint the edge and then run it through the table saw to make the other side parallel, circular saw marks were left which seems to not allow the joint to seat tightly to one another. Am I doing something wrong? Is this normal and if so any suggestions on how to fix? Do I make a quick pass through the jointer again to smooth it out? Seems like that would work, but not sure if that keeps the two sides parallel.

Thank you!!!

 

[Bill Arnold]

Many rimes I'll do what you described about a final pass on the jointer. I'll make my table saw cut 1/32" oversize, then make the pass on my jointer to take 1/32" off.

Another option is to use a "glue line cut" blade on your table saw, which will make a very smooth cut.

By the way, welcome to our Family!

 

[Ryan Mooney]

Another option is to use a "glue line cut" blade on your table saw, which will make a very smooth cut.

In addition to this saw setup and operation matters somewhat. If things (fence/blade) aren't aligned properly or you have wiggle while sawing (feather boards and push blocks help here) you can end up with marks as well. The other cause I've had is where there is some reaction wood that moves while sawing, which is harder to deal with because it's probably not straight in either direction then and needs more re-milling.

I usually either take a jointer pass or clamp the two pieces to glue together and hit them with a hand plant (clamping them together gives a complementary angle in case I go off square a smidge).

 

[Greg Heichel]

Fantastic!! Thank you very much for the advice!!

 

[Don Baer]

in addition to what has already been said I always kept a Freud thin kerf rip blade and used ONLY for what you described. I Never owned a Jointer. I did tons of edge glue up and they always came out perfect.

 

[Darren Wright]

Welcome to the family, Greg!

 

[Bob Gibson]

Welcome !!!!!!!!!

 

[Leo Voisine]

I use a Freud Glue Line Rip blade on my table saw. It works well, but as a second choice you can leave a little material and clean up the edge on the jointer

 

[Rennie Heuer]

All of what has been said and Welcome!

 

[Charles Lent]

Welcome Greg. I can see that the others have already helped you with your woodworking questions, so I'll just introduce myself for now.

Charley

 

[Leo Voisine]

Oh yeah --- WELCOME

 

[Jonathan Shively]

Welcome to the family!! Hope you stick around and participate. I am not the photo police but no pictures, it didn't happen!!!

We are a curious bunch and do like seeing your work and workshop!

 

[Vaughn McMillan]

Welcome to the clubhouse, Greg!

in addition to what has already been said I always kept a Freud thin kerf rip blade...

Another Freud thin kerf rip blade user here. I've done a lot of glue-ready cuts with mine. (I actually have two, because it was easier to buy a second one than get the first one sharpened.) Having the fence accurately aligned with the blade is also a key part of the equation.

 

[glenn bradley]

Welcome. As mentioned, the tablesaw needs to be well aligned during setup; blade and fence aligned to (usually) the left miter slot. Tablesaws are rarely fine out of the box or right off the pallet. If the saw is well aligned you blade marks should be minimal. A swipe with a hand plane will cure a lot of ills. Again as already mentioned, wood movement can override even a perfect machine setup. This is just something we deal with as wood workers working with a natural product.

 

[Toni Ciuraneta]

I didn’t know that those types of blades existed. Having to have invisible glue lines in my carvings, I pass the boards on the jointer and then I adjust them by hand planning with a freshly sharpened plane. Maybe I should give them a try if they sell them over here.