another coat, or toss it

allen levine

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back in 2015, Jim delaney brought a bunch of what I think is hard maple bowl blanks to Jons gathering and I took them all.(noone else seemed to want them)
Ive turned most of them, this last one had a crack/split down one side of it, I turned it anyway.
I put some oil on it, then applied first coat of poly today.

so its got a hole in the side, thats the way the blank was, should I coat it again, get a nice shine on it, or does it look silly? with a hole in it?(Like I just made a cracked bowl)

oh, I almost built up enough courage yesterday to turn those stone mechanical pencil blanks ted gave me back then also. maybe next week. Id hate to ruin them and have nothing to show for the nice blanks I was gifted

Im turning infrequently now, so every time I use the lathe its a learning experience all over again.
 

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Jim DeLaney

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I'm pretty sure that was Beech, not Maple. Hard to turn, eh? Beech is notorious for checking as it dries.

I'd go along with Bill's suggestion - some epoxy, with the dye of your choice.

Nice bowl, BTW.
 

Ryan Mooney

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My vote is leave it as is or at most ease the sharp edges very slightly. Every bowl I've had with a "flaw" in the wood has generally been the one everyone wanted.
 

allen levine

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new york city burbs
I'm pretty sure that was Beech, not Maple. Hard to turn, eh? Beech is notorious for checking as it dries.

I'd go along with Bill's suggestion - some epoxy, with the dye of your choice.

Nice bowl, BTW.



could be beech, I have no clue.......I was sure you mentioned there was some cherry in that bunch, I havent come across it yet, Id like my money back.
 

Vaughn McMillan

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ABQ NM
I'll second Darren's compliment on the form. :thumb: I don't mind natural holes in most bowls. Personally, I think trying to fill the hole after it's been removed from the lathe is asking for headaches. Any time I've filled cracks or holes, I've needed to use gouges, scrapers, and/or sandpaper to get the patch flush with the bowl surface.

One unsolicited suggestion I'd make would be to lightly wet sand the finish with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper to remove the orange peel surface (might have to add more coats of finish first), and then buff it out to a smooth gloss. (Buffing wheels and the appropriate buffing compounds on a lathe or other motor would be the easiest, but you could also buff it out by hand using automotive rubbing compound, followed by buffing compound and wax. Or if you want more of a satin finish, you can rub it out with 0000 steel wool or the equivalent synthetic pad.
 

Dave Hoskins

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Parker County, Texas
I do like the bowl as is. Lots of folks like flawed bowls and such. Look at it this way, if it doesn't sell after a reasonable period of time, you can always go to plan B. Right?
 
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