John Daugherty
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- Oliver Springs, TN
Thanks guys, still looking. All the comments have been helpful.
bandsaw purchase questions
- Thread starter John Daugherty
- Start date
Norman Hitt
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- Odessa, Tx
Hey Bruce, You Should'a........
.........been at a MM seminar that had Mark Duginski demo'ing the MM16 and you would "Probably" have to change that opinion.
He first used a 1/2" blade (IIRC) and did a bunch of resaws and made vaneer, then he very quickly changed to a 1/4" blade and made a few quick adjustments and cut a beautiful cabriole leg and some other curvy stuff, then, (again very quickly) installed a 1/8" blade and made all kinds of curvy cuts (like for bandsaw boxes and other things) in wood from 4" to 6" thick without a bobble. It was absolutely amazing to watch. The most amazing thing though was the results of the cuts. I thought there would just have to be some slanting or bowing in the cuts with that super narrow blade in that thick stuff, but there was absolutely NONE. Every cut line was straight through and perpendicular to the face, (base) of the wood being cut. (Guess you'll just have to practice more)
I was so flabbergasted (and deflated because of my OWN inabilities) by that time, I cannot even remember what he did when he put one of those round scrolling blades on. I think his parents must have given him a bandsaw for a toy when he was a baby.
Travis, that is the best camouflaged bandsaw I have seen, I had to hunt for it. (I’m only on my second cup of java…
The difference between my MM16 and my old 14” Delta is like night & day, the MM is so much more substantial.
In my opinion, the MM does not do well with the ¼” & smaller blades. I have a small Rikon BS for curvy work.
.........been at a MM seminar that had Mark Duginski demo'ing the MM16 and you would "Probably" have to change that opinion.
He first used a 1/2" blade (IIRC) and did a bunch of resaws and made vaneer, then he very quickly changed to a 1/4" blade and made a few quick adjustments and cut a beautiful cabriole leg and some other curvy stuff, then, (again very quickly) installed a 1/8" blade and made all kinds of curvy cuts (like for bandsaw boxes and other things) in wood from 4" to 6" thick without a bobble. It was absolutely amazing to watch. The most amazing thing though was the results of the cuts. I thought there would just have to be some slanting or bowing in the cuts with that super narrow blade in that thick stuff, but there was absolutely NONE. Every cut line was straight through and perpendicular to the face, (base) of the wood being cut. (Guess you'll just have to practice more)I was so flabbergasted (and deflated because of my OWN inabilities) by that time, I cannot even remember what he did when he put one of those round scrolling blades on. I think his parents must have given him a bandsaw for a toy when he was a baby.
Bill Simpson
Member
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- 1,756
I resaw all the time with my Ridgid 14" BS. No I don't have a riser and yes I am limited to 6" material, and No I don't have a special jig, but Yes I have it running true and set up correctly. Nuff said. Depends on what your plans are for the saw. The key is proper setup and adjustment. Not gismos and add-ons but simple basic setup. 