Bark stablizing

David Johnson

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Carthage,Mo
What to use to seal and keep bark stable? Had a friend talk about charctuterie board yesterday. That's a fancy French name for cheese board. Went to limber yard this am for 15/16 maple and found a cedar board with a lot of character with bark edges. So a little bark stablizing and trimming would suit her just fine. Have other boards that would work but she wants fancy type. We'll see.
David
 
I would personally avoid leaving the bark on a charctuterie board simply because of the cleaning issues. I have done a number with "natural edge", where I peeled the bark off and gently rounded the pokey bits but still trying to preserve the "character" and those worked pretty well.

If you decide to go ahead.. cedar bark is pretty porous so personally I'd want to saturate it pretty well. I've had good luck with both cyanoacrylate and epoxy. The CA tends to work better on thinner strips of bark where you don't need as much penetration, I'd be slightly concerned in this case that you wouldn't get a great bond along join with it. It might still work pretty well though and has the advantage over epoxy of not building up much, that is the thin stuff soaks right in.

For the epoxy I'd heat the piece of wood up to 90-100F and then pour the resin onto it so that its pulled in as it cools. The trick there would be to avoid getting to thick of a resin coating on the actual outside of the bark, some judicious use of tape dams and not getting to close to the edge should work but I'd experiment with a scrap of the actual wood in use first. You might have to do a couple of coats. Shave epoxy back to the wood back after to get rid of any surface resin. This may also cause some "finishing" problems, but if you're just doing wax & mineral oil that will sit on top of epoxy as happily as it does on wood.
 
...For the epoxy I'd heat the piece of wood up to 90-100F and then pour the resin onto it so that its pulled in as it cools. The trick there would be to avoid getting to thick of a resin coating on the actual outside of the bark...

Thin the epoxy with acetone, and it'll penetrate better.
 
Thin the epoxy with acetone, and it'll penetrate better.

Truth that does work as well and may perhaps get better penetration, it also makes the epoxy weaker and more porous so there's some tradeoffs there. If I was going that route I'd probably do a thinned application then a full strength "skim coat" after the first round had had a bit to set.
 
I'll second Ryan's comments about the bark edge being a cleaning issue. I think regardless of how you try to stabilize it, the bark will be a natural trap for food particles and bacteria. I'd suggest to the friend that you knock the bark off, but still leave the edge naturally wavy.
 
With cedar having the type of bark it does, I think I would get rid of all the fuzzies and all. Then finish the edges the same as the board. There was several years ago a controversy on whether cedar was safe for direct food contact with the resins it has in it. Or, more technically speaking the Thujaplicins which although toxic is also an antibacterial agent and even this they describe as having no known health risk. For a while I advised only using cedar bowls for stuff that had peels and shells on them for display. Such as fruits and nuts. Later I have changed that. Use it for whatever they want. A friend said he used a cedar bowl I turned for cereal one morning and it tasted a little funny but did not make him sick.
 
The suggestion to remove bark and just use wavy edge is the answer. Priced the CA and epoxy and neither is price conscious. More for finish than price I would get. The item won't be used that much so I feel it's food safe enough. For all the partying people using, they won't notice any difference.

. Thanks all for input. That's what makes this place so great.
David
 
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