how to handle rough wood????

Frank Fusco

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Mountain Home, Arkansas
In another thread I mentioned my planer blades got badly damaged from rough wood. I don't remember my most recent use of the planer but I do have a pretty good supply of both maple and walnut slabs I have to plane down for projects. Both of these were originally stored outdoors. I'm suspecting they got dirt and grit on them and that may be what damaged my blades. Which brings up the problem. How should wood like this be handled to prevent planer damage? After all a planers job is to smoothen rough wood. Yes, yes, I know, don't store outdoors in the first place. This wood was given to me, free. Up to now. :(
Wat to do??? :huh:
 
if they were stored on the ground, I'd go over them real good with a stiff brush to make sure you clean the outside off as good as possible.

Those looked like some nasty nicks. Do you think there was any embedded metal in the boards?
 
I stuff em in the big planer gravel and all:thumb:
Then run them through the little one to clean em up:thumb:
Did I mention the knifes in the big one are junk.:rofl::rofl::rofl:
I think the best thing to do Frank is box that stuff up and send it to me:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
I have planed a ton of rough wood and suffered no damage to the blades.

Damage comes from (non wood) particles ranging from nails to bullets and sand and grit. Make sure all these are removed and there should be no problem. Brush down dirty woods, You can easily hose off dirty wood w/o changing the MC. Properly dried wood will shed water and only absorb water on the outer cells. To change the MC of the wood you have to expose to moisture over a long period. Hosing and allowing to drip dry will only slightly react If you hose all surfaces and stand on end to allow to dry (but not in direct sun) I reciently did some old Barn wood. Been nastied by groundhogs and cow... (we don't want to go there) Although it created quite a smell, I found no "Damage" to the blades. Wood is wood, rather it is rough or pre processed... Should not effect the blades.
 
I take a wire brush to it. Then shop vac off. If I do a bunch, I just brush off with a broom after the wire. If I suspect metal, I take the Little Wizard to it.

Yep, that is what I do too!

Plus, I joint my rough wood first, the knives on my jointer are very substantial and will handle a lot of sharpenings, the knives on my planer are also the sharpen-able type, but they have a lot fewer trips to the sharpener in them.
 
Yep. I larnt a thang or three.
Will wire brush and hose or broom sweep off from now on. It's just a problem I never encountered before or even considered.
Who was it that said, "there ain't no such thing as 'free' wood" ? ;)
 
Actually wood is not "just wood" in the sense that all woods machine easily.

There are some areas of the country where there is so much silica in the water that the wood draws it up and it forms silica deposits in the wood. That stuff will dull tooling real quick. (some areas of Georgia are like this)

A friend of mine was born in the Belgium Congo and told me about a tree so hard that it would quickly dull carbide chain saw chains. This tree was over 10' in diameter and they had a heck of a time getting it removed from an airstrip they were building. He tried burning some chips of this tree and said that after they had been in a bonfire all night they charred about 1 mm deep.
They eventually sawed it into sections and bulldozed it to the edge of the airstrip. He knew the names of a lot of the exotic species of trees that we might recognize, but couldn't tell me what the tree was called other than what the native people called it. Of course I didn't have a clue what it was and can't remember. :doh:
 
Actually wood is not "just wood" in the sense that all woods machine easily.

There are some areas of the country where there is so much silica in the water that the wood draws it up and it forms silica deposits in the wood. That stuff will dull tooling real quick. (some areas of Georgia are like this)

A friend of mine was born in the Belgium Congo and told me about a tree so hard that it would quickly dull carbide chain saw chains. This tree was over 10' in diameter and they had a heck of a time getting it removed from an airstrip they were building. He tried burning some chips of this tree and said that after they had been in a bonfire all night they charred about 1 mm deep.
They eventually sawed it into sections and bulldozed it to the edge of the airstrip. He knew the names of a lot of the exotic species of trees that we might recognize, but couldn't tell me what the tree was called other than what the native people called it. Of course I didn't have a clue what it was and can't remember. :doh:


I used to correspond frequently with Jim King (a member but infrequent visitor here) who exports exotic woods from Peru. He has a wood, Queen something, he says makes Lignum Vitae look soft by comparison.
He also mentioned one which is illegal to export that is extremely hard and "grows like grass". Those tourist carvings which are of figures and very heavy are made with some kinda incredible hard wood. I'd like to get ahold of some.
 
Actually wood is not "just wood" in the sense that all woods machine easily.

doh:


well wood is wood but I do agree that some are very soft and some are very hard and many are in between. I was considering "Damage" as chips and nicks which are usually caused by "Non Wood" products in the surface... You are right, some of the harder woods such as Osage Orange can dull in a heartbeat. Hard Knots can do a number as well (Just wondering... Is a bunch of them called a "School of Hard Knots" My grandpa used to claim to have gone to that school... Their mascott was a rough row to hoe... ) :thumb:
 
I have a cousin that lives in Guatemala. He told me about a wood that the natives use for house pilings. He said it is about as hard and durable as cement. Couldn't tell me the name of it. When he and his wife built their house the locals went up to the highlands to get some of this wood for the foundation. It has crossed my mind that it would be an interesting trip to tour different countries just to check out the native trees and woods. Some countries truly have a world treasure in their trees. The variety is staggering.
 
I like the concept of putting it through the jointer first. Those blades are relatively cheap and at least have a few sharpenings in them.

If you are like me the DW735 might have reversable blades but at $70 plus a set and no sharpenings its an expensive proposition.

What about cleaning up a board with a jointer plane first? Be good exercise and worst case you have to sharpen the plane blade and loose a little in the length.:D

As to exotic woods, there are a few in South Africa that would be nice to get ones hands on. Only thing is there aint much of it growing due to the climate so its scarce at best.

Paul i think the tour idea of yours would be a great trip. Its just the bring back of souverniers could be an excercise in itself and costly.

I often wonder how guys that get their hands on real good wood part with it. Better ask Larry i suppose.:D
 
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