Storing Fresh Cut Maplle??

Mike Turner

Member
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361
Location
Laurinburg NC
Here are some pics of some maple I just recently cut. I have it all coated with anchorseal and lying on the side under a tarp for now. I know ideally rough turn it asap but for me that will be a slow go. I will get to it a piece at a time as I work a lot and have other stuff going on. I guess I should get it off the ground and keep it covered ??? DSC02889.jpgDSC02890.jpg
 
Anchorseall will help especially if you put on two coats but the best thing to do is to cut the pith out of it. I generally cut a 1/2" on either side of the pith then anchorseal the ends. The pith is where the cracks emminate from. If I can't cut the pith out I generally leave the logs about 6 to 8 inches longer than the diameter so that way when I cut the cracks off on the ends I will have 3 to 4 inches on each end to cut off to fresh wood.
 
I'll second what Bernie said. Even if you don't have time to turn it right now, I'd recommend making the time to cut each chunk into two half cylinders wile cutting the middle of each (the pith) out of them. That will greatly reduce the potential for cracking.
 
Anchorseall will help especially if you put on two coats but the best thing to do is to cut the pith out of it. I generally cut a 1/2" on either side of the pith then anchorseal the ends. The pith is where the cracks emminate from. If I can't cut the pith out I generally leave the logs about 6 to 8 inches longer than the diameter so that way when I cut the cracks off on the ends I will have 3 to 4 inches on each end to cut off to fresh wood.

I'll second what Bernie said. Even if you don't have time to turn it right now, I'd recommend making the time to cut each chunk into two half cylinders wile cutting the middle of each (the pith) out of them. That will greatly reduce the potential for cracking.

and I'll third what they both said, cut the pith out!
 
This maybe a no brainer...But when you slice/rip the trunk can you obviously see what is the pith? I have only done this on a magnolia but nothing this size...I saved some of it and lost some of it.....hmmmm probably didnt remove enough of the pith maybe
 
Really an 1" or an 1 1/2" wide board out of the middle of your two halves that contains the pith is all you need to remove.

You can still get cracks, that is the nature of wood, but I find they are a LOT less when I get the pith out!:thumb:
 
Mike, with most woods, the pith looks pretty much just like the heartwood. if you remoe and inch or two from the very middle of the rings, that should take care of the majority of the cracking.

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Has anybody ever tried to drill it out ??? Maybe an impossible feat ? ,.....EDIT CRAZY IDEA ! Ill do as a lot turners have suggested ...cut a 1 1/2" wide piece with the pith and maybe use it as platter...when I can get a chainsaw to use besides my electric which cuts great but this is over its head so to speak !
 
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Has anybody ever tried to drill it out ??? Maybe an impossible feat ? ,.....EDIT CRAZY IDEA ! Ill do as a lot turners have suggested ...cut a 1 1/2" wide piece with the pith and maybe use it as platter...when I can get a chainsaw to use besides my electric which cuts great but this is over its head so to speak !

You would need a very large drill press with some serious power to dril the pith out I think :D

The slab you remove from the middle of the piece of wood depends on the diameter of the the wood. If it is 6" diameter then an 1 1/2" would be over kill, if it is 24" in diameter, then you might need more than an 1 1/2"

I have a small electric chainsaw and with the chain sharp and going slow it cuts very well.
Cheers!
 
On the bigger pieces, if you make the 'cutout" 2 to 3 inches wide, you can rip it into spindle stock for small boxes, chisel/file handles, spinning tops and such. I would recommend getting after the crotch pieces first. If you can rough turn them right away, don't worry about taking out the pith, just cut right through the pith on both sections. Then when you turn them, make the flat side the bottom of your bowl or platter, with the rim on the bark side. This leaves the most highly figured wood on the bottom, where it won't be turned away. It means that your piece will be smaller in diameter than if you did it the usual way, but the inside will be much more dramatic. Going right through the center of the pith means that you won't have to waste as much of the good figure turning a tenon or recess.

Once it is all cut up, leave it under the tarp to protect it from the direct sun to help keep it from drying out too fast, causing cracks.

Dan

Dan
 
Hey Mike. I process a lot of chunks of maple like yours and until recently I used nothing but an electric chain saw. Make sure it's sharp and cut along the bark NOT across the end. Many times I have had to cut from both ends but here in BC the pieces once cut hardly check at all.
 
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