Filling in End wood grain

Al Launier

Member
Messages
1,683
Location
Bedford, NH
I've completed a couple of small woodworking projects that were painted. Yet, despite a fair amount of sanding the final painted surface still showed the texture of the end grain. So, next time around I'd like to find an end grain wood filler. I've found some contenders on the Rockler & Woodcraft Internet sites. However, before I select one, I'd appreciate learning what you guys do to fill in the end grains so that after sanding it looks & feels as smooth as the face grain. Any recommendations?
 
I've sanded end grain to a couple of grits more than the faces, used glue size (glue thinned with water) followed by sanding, or shellac followed by sanding to smooth out the end grain before finishing. All work depending on application.
 
If you're painting, Bondo works very good. Easy to sand.


MikesMasterLogo2.gif

movingplane1.gif

.
 
+1 on glue size, even easier. You already have it. Put a shot glass of glue in a container and add 2 - 4 shot glasses of water. Cap it and shake the bejeezus out of it. Paint on with a disposable brush, and let dry overnight. Sand, prime, paint . . . presto.
 
+1 on glue size, even easier. You already have it. Put a shot glass of glue in a container and add 2 - 4 shot glasses of water. Cap it and shake the bejeezus out of it. Paint on with a disposable brush, and let dry overnight. Sand, prime, paint . . . presto.

What kind of glue are you & Bil referring to? Titebond? II? III?
 
What kind of glue are you & Bil referring to? Titebond? II? III?

Yes. I use whatever PVA glue I happen to be using. I thin mine to an almost watery consistency for things like MDF. However, you have to be careful how much you apply at a time if the consistency is real thin and the wood is very absorbing. Things like MDF and red oak will absorb the stuff as fast as you can apply it and swell. For these trouble makers I use a very light coat, just enough to dampen the end fibers actually. Let that dry an hour more or less and sand it with 220. The second coat should not soak in as much and is the one that really does the job. I don't paint much hardwood but, for poplar I use about a 1:4 mix of glue:water which is thin-syrup-like in consistency and brush on, let dry, sand. primer, paint.
 
Thanks Glenn, I'm going with that. :thumb: Another Bradley Tip going into my note book. :thumb:

Oops! Thank you also Bill for the glue size tip and Roger & Mike for your help.
 
Last edited:
I tried the glue-size method three times to fill the end grain pores on my current project. i tried different dilution rates with the initial dilution at ~ 10 parts water to one part Titebond II. This seemed awfully watery. Then tried 4/1 & finally 2/1 the last attempt. Sanded afterward & then repeated the 2/1 mix. Still the end grain is significant (poplar) as detected by eye & by dragging a pin over the grain. So, I just tried Elmer"s ProBond Professional Strength Wood Filler hoping that might stick to the previous glue-size coatings & fill in the pores. Although I believe this product is intended for wood repair rather than as a pore/end grain filler. Will see shortly.

While on this subject, Bob Flexner in his book discusses the use of Paste Wood Filler to fill the pores in preparation for applying various finishes. This discussion, plus several others I've watched on youtube is concerned with "face" grain rather than end grain.


  1. So, I have some comments/questions.
  2. Applying primer, or paint, raises the end grain, even after sanding which requires more sanding. Sanding paint is not my favorite pastime, heck sanding is not my favorite pastime!
  3. I'm assuming that paste wood filler can be used as effectively on "end" grain. Is this correct?
  4. Is there any reason that this paste wood filler would not work when using a paint rather than a finish?
  5. Is there a recommendation for a paste wood filler that can be used prior to painting?
  6. Can a good primer be used as an end grain filler?
 
You could try a paste wood filler, and if you do, get one that is solvent based. I use this one. You could reduce your filling by just sanding out the end grain, up to 400x-600x (dry). Then a filler would be a minimal coating. I will repeat myself, that if you are painting, Bondo works great, and dries fast. IMO, Durhams Rock Hard is more difficult to sand.


MikesMasterLogo2.gif

movingplane1.gif


.
 
Thanks Mike, appreciate your response. Your Bondo suggestion sounds good. Actually I sanded the end grain with 150, 240, 300, 400 & 1000 grit emery/paper. Is this the type Bondo you are referring to ( http://bondo.com/featured/bondo-wood-filler-20082.html )? I assume in "Natural" color choice? Also, I'm assuming it is as "fine" a filler as used on cars?? Is this the case?

No, I use the automotive type. The glaze is finely granulated and used mostly for pinholes.


MikesMasterLogo2.gif

movingplane1.gif


.
 
Thanks Mike . I'm going to pick up a Bondo Professional Gold Body Repair Kit this week. Perhaps you can answer another question(s). How long does it last, or does it have a shelf life. I can answer these questions when I buy it, but just to know earlier because my projects are infrequent. I can buy in advance or when needed.
 
Thanks Mike . I'm going to pick up a Bondo Professional Gold Body Repair Kit this week. Perhaps you can answer another question(s). How long does it last, or does it have a shelf life. I can answer these questions when I buy it, but just to know earlier because my projects are infrequent. I can buy in advance or when needed.

When you open the can it will likely be a grayish color with some loose solvent on top. Mix it all up real good. The hardner will likely be in a little tube, and the last time I bought it it was red. When you mix it, you need about ¼" of hardner for a golf ball size of Bondo. Mix it very good, as you don't have a lot of time...maybe 5 minutes if you're lucky. The mixed color should be sort of pinkish. If it starts to congeal, it's too late. Use the plastic spreader that comes with the kit. If you keep the top edge clean and the lid is well seated I've gotten a couple of years out of a can. The more times you open and close it, will have an impact on its shelf life. Make sure you mix it up each time you use it.


MikesMasterLogo2.gif

movingplane1.gif


.
 
Top