That is a great band saw. I have the one my father purchased new long before there were trees with apples.
Mine is still stock with all original parts except: Saw stand, Carter guides, I made a change to blade tensioning mechanism. OK here are the Pics from the left:
1) Tensioning screw (I drilled a dimple in the end of the rod). The ball is held in place by the dimple in the rod. I have never had it come out.
2) View of the "crank" I made using threaded rod. It works great!
3) Quarter view of the saw on its stand. The WorkSharp is fastened to the stand with threaded inserts and knobs with threaded rod. The WorkSharp works very well under the BS table. I toss a de-handled grocery bag over it when it is not in use. The little plastic drawer unit has been replaced by a cabinet added to the right side of the table (Designed and built by Glenn). It holds the WorkSharp 3000 abrasive disks---But that is another story. The brown rectangle you see on the front of the saw is my shop made switch. The PVC was removed later.
4) Shows the new motor location. Notice the shop made "knee" switch. The switch is VERY handy.
5) Down on the bottom of the cabinet you can see the "ring" (3/8" thick eye bolt) that my home made Johnson Bar hooks into to re-position the unit. There is a length of electric conduit fastened to the bottom of the carcase. The eyebolt just slips in if the saw is to me moved. The weight of the saw and cabinet keep the eyebolt in place; it is not fastened. It is the best way I have found to move the saw. The dark area at the bottom is just where I removed a drawer to get a better pic. The eye bolt has been removed in the next pic.
6) I had the crazy idea that a pair of long handles would give me enough leverage that I could move the saw. The PVC on the sides is where the "handles" would slide in when the unit was to be moved. It did not
work. That is why I went to the Johnson Bar. That is not sloppy workmanship. I did open all of the drawers a bit in this pic.
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The following is an old post. I just added it for whatever you might gain from it.
Here is my set-up. It is all threeQ Baltic Birch. It is as stable as the rock of Gilbrater.
I made one big mistake. I thought I could put two wheels at the back and move it “wheelbarrow” style. Little ole me couldn’t even raise the front the thickness of a piece of paper---and those handles extend out two-feet for leverage. I should have used the Johnson Bar approach to start with. If I ever need to move it, I will add the Johnson Bar (Johnson Bars move my lathe, my bench and my sanding center.) My 128 pound Myrna could move my very heavy work bench all around with one hand using the Johnson Bar. If you have questions on this, see my thread on my workbench or let me know and I will post pics.
All of the drawers are full extension. The motor was placed at the rear instead of under the BS so I could have these drawers. The open space under the motor is still open for whatever. I will probably end up with more drawers opening towards the woodworker.
My WorkSharp 3000 sits nicely under the BS table. The small three-drawer cabinet has the WS glass discs, abrasives, etc. It is too dark under there to use the "See-through" disk. However, I have not used the see through so it does not matter.
Overall I am more than pleased with the unit. It is the correct height for me, has a large table, is stable, has a pretty fair amount of storage space and my home made knee switch is very handy."
This last, lonely, pic was put in by mistake. Just ignore it; I could not delete it. It is my dust collection input for my big band saw.