New Creality Ender 5 pro 3D printer

Ryan Mooney

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Well the boss needed^Wwants a bunch of spinning wheel bobbins, which are surprisingly pricy and kind of tricky to make the old fashioned way (especially as she wanted a bunch that flat pack for storage).

So it turned out to be cheaper to enter the 3D thunderdome than to buy the darn things. So this arrived today, a creality Ender 5 pro, was just around $360 after instant rebate on Amazon. Which for the specs and build area 220x220x300mm nominal.

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Assembly was super easy. Basically install the uprights between the preassembled top and bottom, bolt on the z axis, and level the bed.

First print without tuning anything or.. really knowing anything about what we're doing :rolleyes: looks pretty good except some Shmoo on some overhangs, but the transitions otherwise looks super crisp and look awesome - will certainly serve it's purpose as a strain relief for the bed heater.

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Ryan Mooney

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Note that the dangly bits had basically zero support so .. I'm not sure how they were supposed to work (hard to blame the printer there I think). Other than that the print is really crisp looking imho (especially since this was at low res).
 

Brent Dowell

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His is pretty much the exact same size, but chatting with Ryan the other day I was looking at some of the larger Ender printers.

I really like that the table isn't getting slung back and forth on these printers. The less mass being thrown around should workto make a better print.
 

Ryan Mooney

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So what slicer software did you go with?
We're starting out with cura latest and seeing how it goes. The usage reports from most users say the modern cura versions are quite good. Our experience is one test print so far so I'm not claiming to have significant experience. The firmware is Marlin but perhaps a bit out of date so that's also on the short list to update.
 

Ryan Mooney

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Well this was hiding inside the screwed down plate underneath the thing.

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The switch is intuitively not visible inside the back
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But now it doesn't reboot when I heat the hot end and bed at the same time so that's nice. Really surprised it worked at all.

While I was in there added a bit of grounding to the frame (green wire with black stripe - paint is scraped off underneath the nut for frame contact also scraped the other side of the bolt so the upright had contact). Had to search through my "small nuts" and "really small bolts" containers to find the bolt and nut that fit. Then managed to find crimp connectors in the stash even :bliss:The wire is perhaps one size smaller than I'd like but sufficient and at least the hot bed and rails are grounded (proven by multimeter) now so that seemed like a good idea.

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Brent Dowell

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Belt and suspenders on the grounding. I'd think that with it being screwed the the case, it's at least grounded there, lol.

That gets a bit more important when dealing with the k40 lasers, as some of those need to be grounded, but aren't, and with the way they step up the voltage for the tube, well, youch!
 

Ryan Mooney

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Yeah I was mostly thinking this might help keep transient noise in the steppers to a minimum. Not that a little extra grounding ever hurt anything anyway :D

The multimeter confirmed the the critical points had a decent path to ground at this point and they didn't before anyway so I reckon it did something lol.
 
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