Really trying to overcome my normal procrastinating state so I spent an entire day in the shop today working on my organization project.
My goal, other than getting it done, was to build the entire project from items I already have in the shop, and I did! I used Brazilian cherry, lyptus, white oak, and a sheet of 3/4" phenolic I already had. Even the hinges, nuts, bolts, magnets and finish were already on the shelf. With the exception on one small tool, mission accomplished.
I'm proud to say that it is done except for the finish and a portion of the hinge block (thats the white oak part not shown in the pictures). The part of the hinge (where it attaches to the saw) requires a larger round over than any I have so, in spite of not wanting to spend any money on this project I will need to go out tomorrow and pick up a 3/4" round over bit.
Here's a few pics of the process. Thanks so much to Stu for the design. Mine is very close to his with only a few minor changes.
Exactly. I have a slight hump in the floor that keeps me from using my roll around cabinet as an outfeed as one wheel is on the hump and the wood catches on it after it leaves the saw table. With the new outfeed it is attached to the saw and will always be in the same plane.
Put the last coat of finish on last night and pulled the tape this morning. A couple of missteps (screw and brad placement) and a couple of design refinements would be on my list of changes were I to build another. I went a bit overboard on the foot's ability to overcome an uneven floor. That could be scaled back a bit. Still haven't decided if I need an angle brace on the leg.
In any event, a fun and useful project. Now, with a full month to go till the deadline, maybe I could take on something else.
I have assembled the carcase and front panel. It is all glued and made as a removable unit. If I ever want to vertical clamp something large the cabinet can easily be removed. First the drawers, then the whole carcase.
View of back, side and top of carcase.
The carcase is build strong enough so as to be able to put my rotary axis on top, which is about 6" below the table top and that gives me some additional "Z" axis for the rotary.
I gave it 3 coats of poly. I didn't stain it, after all it's just a shop cabinet
I cut the carcase sections on the CNC with a 1/4 end mill. That left a 1/8 radius in the corners, so I did a 1/8 corner round on the router table. Looks cool.
I painted the machine frame with some REALLY nice oil based Sherwin Williams paint. Brushed on. Still, it's at least as good as the trim in my house.
The cross beam is made to just sit there in the bottom. It gives me the strength I need to mount the rotary axis on top of the cabinet. The cabinet will just rest, nestled in the inside of the cross beam. No need for any fasteners.
The drawers are made with lap joints and glued and nailed. Done it before and it is fine on a shop cabinet. Wood is Poplar.
I made a quickie fixture to quick change the parts in and out. Litterally 15 seconds to change out the parts.
Left is raw part - right is with lap cut out.
There are 2 clamps to hold the part. The rest of the clamps are for the fixturing.
The set up took 5 minutes, 5 minutes to program it. About 1-2 minutes per lap cut.
I have the 4 drawers assembled and colored.
4 drawers are Bordeaux and one is green - why - I dunno, it just happened that way. One is for the water coolant drawer - suppose it should be blue. The transtint is blotchy cause it is still wet to partly dry when I snapped the pic.
I have dark gray kiazen foam inserts that will go in the drawers with cutouts for the tools that will go in there.
I haven't been able to check in lately due to a project that went crazy on me, but it's great to see how things are coming along! After this week I am finally going to be back to a normal schedule, and I can't wait to get going on my build.
Oh, and Rennie, no one likes an overachiever. ;p Jokes aside, way to make happen...very nice Rennie!
I got a little time in the shop yesterday morning, but was getting about 98 in there by the time I finished cutting some dados, so this is as far as I got. Nothing too fancy, just some extra pine I had on hand, I'll be contouring that center upper partition and adding some chisel storage in the small compartment on the right hand side, the left side will have an angled bed for some of my larger planes. The bottom section will be for smaller block and shoulder planes.
I cobbled together a stand for a benchtop saw a while back. It works really well with the iBox jig but it had no fence. I wanted to make a bunch of wooden boxes. I got the parts cut out on the panel saw at the lab. Then it was time to cut the dado for the bottoms. Needed a fence.
After an aborted attempt that just failed to meet my expectations, I sprung for plans from IBuildIt.ca. Not bad. Only $10 bucks. They were complete but hard to follow, at least for me. A while back I got some ply and cut parts on the panel saw and a cutoff saw. Did also have to borrow my friend Phils's table saw for some cuts. Then everything sat as life intervened.
Along came this build challenge and I opted in. Nothing like a deadline for motivation.
I 3d printed a pointer according to the plans . (He used small wood parts glued up. Shudder thinking about cutting them.) In hindsight this will not work satisfactorily. Paralax is too great and it doesn't span the entire rule. There will be an improvement one day. Maybe. Also, I had a pricey PSA measuring tape but opted for a $3 rule from Harbor Freight, cut to fit. I do work in both Imperial and metric measurements, so a dual rule is imperative.
Everything got 3 coats of water based poly to improve operation. I did add an HDPE follower at the far end of the fence to slide over the table ribs easier. Works well.
Just a wooden version of a Biesemeyer fence. Works satisfactorily. Think I'll keep it.
So got started cutting the dados for the box bottoms. On part #9 this happened. Murphy bites! Will call beltsforanything.com in the morning.
Just for giggles, here is close up of my saw's dust collection system.
FWIW, if I were to do this again, I would make several changes that would make it an easier build and more accurate. Just my 2 cents.
So I some more pieces fit into the puzzle the other night. The line drawn on the middle partition is where it will be cut-out to allow more access to the chisels I plan to put on the other side. I think I'm going to leave the front just face framed with a lip on the front of all the shelves. I will glue on some strips to the angled board the planes are on to keep them in their places.