TV Side Table

glenn bradley

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10,912
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SoCal
I settled on side hung for the drawer. The guides will have to be wide enough to offset the legs. Sounds like I better make a test drawer.

TV Side Table (88).jpg

Yep, those are some wide guides. I usually use hard maple but happened to have a scrap of straight grained pecan in the bin.

TV Side Table (89).jpg

I'll cut a 1/4" deep stopped-groove down each side of the drawer box. I mark the router table fence for my stopping points.

TV Side Table (90).jpg

I will feed the drawer box part way one direction for one side and part way the other direction for the other. This lets me use the same reference edge to set the groove position. To assure things don't wander I add a second fence.

TV Side Table (91).jpg

Test drawer is a success.

TV Side Table (92).jpg

I have decided to go to a separate drawer box and false front style drawer. Getting in and around the internals got a little more fussy than I wanted to deal with. A false front drawer removed the challenges of my original design.

TV Side Table (93).jpg

Time for the real stuff.
 

glenn bradley

Member
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10,912
Location
SoCal
While the box glue sets I look to the pull. LOML never quite forgave me for taking the old media cabinet out to the shop for my own use. This pull design will echo that piece. I found a scrap of figured maple. I just have to remove anything that doesn't look like the shape I want.

TV Side Table (97).jpg

The Incra T rules come in handy for this small scale work.

TV Side Table (98).jpg

I use a Forstner bit to set the center curves.

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I bandsaw out the rest.

TV Side Table (100).jpg

And we end up here at about 5/8" thick by 6-1/2" wide.

TV Side Table (101).jpg
 

Tom Niemi

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Plainwell, Michigan
I’ve been looking at slides for a fabric hutch I’m working on for my wife (pics eventually 🥴) it has a 38” drawer and your oversized runners may just be the ticket 👍 as always, great follow along and great project 🙂
 
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5,363
Location
Catalunya
The spindel sander, although oscillating, can still leave grit marks across the figure in the tight radius. A shaped backer and a strip of abrasive coarse enough to remove those scratches will do the trick. I hold the rubber doo-dad and pull the strip of paper through till I have removed the scratches. I repeat with finer grits till I get what I want. Those of you familiar with a stroke sander know exactly what's happening here
:)
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View attachment 122141
That's exactly what I do when I have to sand end grain in certain spots or I want to remove scratches at a very specific small area. the only difference is that I use my finger as a backer. I remember posting about it some time ago. WHere did you get that one Glenn here they do not sell such things. :(
 

glenn bradley

Member
Messages
10,912
Location
SoCal
That's exactly what I do when I have to sand end grain in certain spots or I want to remove scratches at a very specific small area. the only difference is that I use my finger as a backer. I remember posting about it some time ago. WHere did you get that one Glenn here they do not sell such things. :(
My first set came from Lee Valley. Doing a lot of G&G style I killed off the 1/8" radius pad. I ordered some more.
 
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