What type of glue? and why?

whats your go to glue?

  • tite bond 1 the original

    Votes: 12 21.1%
  • tite bond 2 exterior use?

    Votes: 24 42.1%
  • tite bond 3 longer open time and shelf life

    Votes: 20 35.1%
  • other

    Votes: 9 15.8%

  • Total voters
  • Poll closed .

larry merlau

Delton, Michigan
what type of glue is reccommended by you for your work and why? i will simplfy this to just the tite bonds not the cna or gorrilla types just your go to glue for anything,, cabinets, furniture glue up, panels the time ranges arent to differnt from what little i know..
type 1=20 mins
type 2=20 mins plus exterior applications
type 3=30 mins longer shelf life
I'm going to answer this as if I was doing segmented turning.

Titebond 1 because it's the strongest of the three.

If I need a longer open time, I use white glue (as in Elmer's)
And what a fool???? i am

:dunno:please put this in the general forum guys i was day dreaming i quess i dont know how it got here i dont do spinny just look and listen to you folks:dunno::dunno:

I use the original Titebond. In fact, I just bought another bottle this week because I'm about out and I'm building cabinets. Yeah, I have less working time but I've had such good luck with it....why try anything else.
I use Titebond II for most projects and either Elmer's (both white and yellow) or Gorrilla for others. I don't do all that much glue-ups yet and I'm still learning.

Aloha, Tony
For the past few years I have generally used the 2002GF from Lee Valley.
I also picked up some Titebond2 last fall, and have started using that more often.

I don't glue enough -- hobbiest! -- to have that many bottles on the go. In fact I usually write the date on the bottle in marker when I buy it so I can judge how old it gets -- usually goes 12-16months before I'm done.
:dunno:please put this in the general forum guys i was day dreaming i quess i dont know how it got here i dont do spinny just look and listen to you folks:dunno::dunno:
Got 'er done, Larry. ;)

Of the yellow glues, I use Titebond II. I was buying it by the gallon when I was making a lot of cutting boards, but I've not done a lot of flat work for a while, so the last gallon has lasted me well over a year. (With a lot still in the bottle.)

For most of my work these days, CA and epoxy are my go-to glues.
TB2 has worked well for me! No real reason why. It's what I've used for a while and I'm happy with it! If I start doing more veneers I may look more into the ureas.
I don't use Titebond, because it is about 3 or 4 times as expensive as the Japanese brand :D

The glue I use would be your typical PVA glue, which would be a Titebond #1 or #2 if it is for outside.

Why? Works good, is cheap and has not failed me yet! :wave:
I use to use Elmer's Wood Glue exclusively. Then when I started doing cutting boards last fall, I switched over to TiteBond2.

I like the TiteBond2 better than the Elmer's, so I'm a convert to it. However, I still have about half a bottle of the Elmer's waiting to be used up on small projects.

I have no interest in Gorilla Glue, as it seems to make a big mess with it's foam. I don't want to be bothered with scraping off dried rock hard foam. If I need to make anything for outside, I'll pick up a bottle of TiteBond3.
There are different applications for each of the different glues. During the past Century when I was teaching we used exclusively which ever was lowest bid. Meaning one year it might be Elmers yellow glue or the nexxt year, Titebond original. Not one time can I remeber a glue failure and we did a host of different applications. M&T joints ,Dowel applications, butt joints and laminations all used the same (by the gallon) glue.

So in my partime project works I can see no reason to change. I use a ton of Titebond Original as I can see little difference between I & II aside from the price. But for specific applications I do select a more appropriate adhesive. I rely a lot on Gorilla (Polyurethane) glue, I have tried the other brands but find the Gorilla more to my liking. Titebond III let me down on an outdoor application and so I shunned it for a while but am giving it another chance. I am applying a molding to the wood body car I am building and I have selected Titebond III I was thinking of using CA special formula designed for this application but the trim I am removing was adhered with that formula and I am having no problem removing whilst the trim I already applied is there for the duration.

Epoxy is my least favorite choice. I keep it and CA for repairs of broken toys and utencils.

I buy 1/2 gal. containers of original Titebond and 16oz containers of III, and I am still running out as it seems. Gorilla also. Just remember to wear gloves with the Gorilla
Well... I wish I could get Titebond glues around here but I seems that there are no distributors here.

So far I'm using a PVA glue that is rated "for professional use" works well so far:dunno:

For some gluing joints that I need the glue to fill some gaps I use a PU glue. But I'm not a fan of it.
I like the titebond II but honestly couldn't tell you the difference in the 3 versions of titebond other than II and III say they're waterproof. When I first started glueing things for turning I used gorilla glue. My reason for using titebond is the same as for not using gorilla glue anymore. Much less mess. I tend to spread it with my fingers which is something you don't want to do with gorilla glue unless you have a thing for brown fingers.
I use TBI and II generally without preference. I voted for II as it is my usual choice.

P.s. A note on strength, Franklin states TB-I, TB-II and then TB-III on strength:


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I use Titebond I on everything that will not be exposed to high moisture. Titebond II will cheap and does not dry as hard, didn’t like III at all to hard to clean up and does not set hard enough. :thumb:

ok now bill simpson said that in his years of teaching that there wasnt alot of differnce but i can see the differnce in the hardness after setup???? ok bill tell us again that its still ok to use the three????? cuz soft setups dont sound like its a good thing???? what am i missing here
I don't know Larry I had a production shop for about 17 years and when I used II I would have to deal with the wood creeping at the glue joints and Titebond told me to use Titebond I if I didn't want the joint to move. Now I did use it on Bench's that went in Locker rooms and had no problems with it there but we didn't care if it move as long as it held together of which it did.:dunno: